Have you been missing the most honest, practical, entertaining, and occasionally funny cycling content in San Luis Obispo? Well, good news! It’s back.

Why should you listen to me?? Well… quite honestly I can’t give any great reasons, but I’ve learned a lot throughout multiple years of riding/racing and have experienced how great (and occasionally not great) the cycling community can be. From important lessons I’ve learned on and off the bike to gear reviews and things I wish I knew when I first started riding, I can promise to share my honest, raw, and unfiltered thoughts on whatever you’d like to hear about.

The post We’re Back! Official 2024 Debut appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Chris: I damaged the chain stay near the chain rings when the chain got wedged between the two (from the bottom up, not the top down). There is a “chip” missing from the carbon, no hole and no crack that I can see. What are my options for repair?

Hey Chris! Sounds like you were laying down some serious watts. So, first, pat yourself on the back for being awesome. Next, pat your bike to see how the carbon’s doing. You might be just fine to just repair the cosmetic damage with a method like the one we wrote about here. To see if it’s really just cosmetic, or something more tear-inducing, I’ve laid out a few options for you below.

As an aside, if you’re having trouble with the chain jumping and causing this in the first place, you might want to check out a chain catcher as well as a your high-low limit screws. But that’s preaching you didn’t solicit.

Step 1: Check the Carbon’s Integrity

The easiest way (and probably the best idea) is to take your frame in to your LBS for your trusted mechanic’s advice. They should be able to tell you if the carbon is unsafe or the chip is merely cosmetic. The other good idea with this is that if your frame has any type of warranty, you’ll be able to find out through your LBS.

You can do a quick check yourself, though. Take a quarter and tap it gently around the chip–if you hear a difference in the sound (like a dullness) from other parts of the frame, then you’ll likely need to repair the carbon.

All in all, the only true way to be able to tell whether the carbon is structurally damaged is to have a repair shop do an ultrasound or something else as equally fancy on the frame.

Step 2: Get That Chip Repaired Properly

If you do need to get that missing chip put back somehow, you’ll want to find a credible repair shop. In my experience, it’ll run you around $100-250, but that’s just a ballpark. You will find self-repair kits online, but without really knowing what you’re doing, these could be dangerous. Trust me, a little knowledge makes for nervous descents at 45mph.

Be sure to go with some trusted repair companies too. Not just Blake’s Bestest Bike Repair (although Blake does true a mean wheel). Your LBS might also be able to recommend a good local repair shop. Barring that, here are two composite fixers that have years of experience and offer guarantees for their work: Ruckus Composites and Calfee Design. Grab a free quote or two online and go from there.

Here’s Luck

Chances are, it’s probably not structural or a big deal at all. The key here–be safe. Get it checked by someone who’s properly qualified, and I’ll keep my fingers crossed for ya.

The post How To Repair A Chip in A Carbon Bike Frame – Is My Frame Still Safe? appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Updated 9-7-2016!

Tony: “I found a good deal on a bike on Craig’s List, and I’m going to check it out in person, but I don’t know what I’m looking for. I am pretty sure the bike is the right size for me, but I want to make sure it’s really in good shape. How do I know whether a bike is really worth the price? How do I know if it’s been crashed, and what should I check to make sure it’s a good bike?”

Tony. Fantastic question. As one who has sold many a bike on Craig’s List, and bought more than a few with friends and family, I can hopefully offer you some good tips on this.

Once you’ve chosen the bike for you, you can check out a few important things to make certain that it hasn’t been crashed or treated carelessly. Before you do anything, you should take a look at Bicycle Blue Book for the current value of the bike you found to make sure that sweet deal really is sweet. Add in all the proper components and any wheel upgrades for a super accurate price.

Of course, taking the bike to your local shop to have the mechanic check it over for you is probably your best bet, but if you don’t feel like bothering with that you should be able to get by with the following steps.

First, don’t forget to take a few tools with you: A multitool, flashlight, and chain checker should do the trick. Plus, they’ll make you look super intimidating.

Check Out That Purty Bike’s Frame 

Before you do anything, make sure you look carefully at the bike’s frame. Inspect it in good light (better yet, use a flashlight), so you’ll be able to see any fine cracks. Look at every inch of the frame–it’s not a bad idea to take the wheels off–and if you see a crack, leave the bike. While some cracks can be repaired, it’s just easier not to have to deal with it. Not to mention that they make the bike generally unsafe to ride.

Minor scratches shouldn’t worry you too much, unless they’re rusty or over several spots on the frame. The key: avoid dents, cracks, and deep rust. While you’re at it, look at the bike from several angles to check for a bent frame–especially in the seat and chain stays. A straight frame is a cool frame.

Take care to look over the seat post and the condition of the frame at the collar–does the post wiggle or move when you twist it? Are there any stress cracks from over tightening? If so, be wary.

Components, Components, Components

Look over the saddle, derailleurs, brake hoods–OK, look at everything. If you see scuffs on the saddle, the seller likely crashed, but ask them how it happened. Often, a minor tipping over because you forgot to clip out can put major scuffing on a saddle without doing any real damage to the bike. If, however, you see chips, dings, scratches, or the like in the rear derailleur or dropouts, they likely had a much larger crash. If they still have the pedals on, check them as well to see if there are any chunks missing.

While evidence of a bigger crash might scare you away, if the frame and components are still in good working order and free of cracks or dings, you still might be interested if the price is right. But definitely ask the seller what happened. How did they crash? Did they have anything repaired on the bike? Have they ridden it many miles since then? This is really your judgment call.

Gears: 

Run the bike through all of its gears several times. If you hear any clicking, grinding, or see a lot of dirt and grime, something is likely wrong. A dirty drivetrain is a sign that the bike may not have been well cared for. Noise in the gearing or clunky shifting could be anything from a cheapy bent derailleur hanger to a costly destroyed hub.

Wheels:

Make sure, first off, that the wheels match each other. Mismatched wheels could be a sign of a crash bad enough to taco a rim. Lift the bike up and spin the wheels to make sure they’re true. Lift it off its front wheel and let the steerer swing from side to side–stay away if it stops in the center.

Spin the wheels to check for drift from side to side. While a minimal amount of movement is ok, make certain it’s in the same spot for each revolution–if it’s uneven or intermittent, the bearings are likely shot. No deal, unless you want to service them or replace a wheel very soon.

Chain:

It’s a good idea to bring along a chain checker tool like this one to see whether or not the one on the bike is worn. If it is, pay close attention to the chainrings and cassette–a worn out chain will wear out your whole drivetrain–also look for signs of shark-toothed cogs. Having to replace these could help you haggle down the price, since they are parts that you’ll need to buy new relatively often anyway.

OK, Now Ride It:

If all looks good, take it for a spin. Listen for creaking and pay attention to the way it steers. See how well it handles by weaving back and forth. Hit the brakes and make sure they work (maybe test them before you take off). Get up to speed and feel for wobble in the wheels.

If all seems good, get the bike. Revel in the glory of the good deal. And feel vindicated in your choice to buy used and keep some extra money in your wallet for things like eating regular meals and paying for your house.

One last thing: you should still definitely take it to a bike shop for a safety check, just to be safe.

Featured image by Phil Hendley

The post How to Make Sure You’re Getting a Good Deal on a Craig’s List Bike appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Stephen: I have a pair of Speedplay Zero pedals, and I heard from a friend that I should put grease in them. How do I grease them? How often do I need to grease them? Oh, and what type of grease should I use?

Hey Stephen. You’ve remind me of an experience I had at a bike shop. I had questions like you have questions–although I was just looking for a specific tube of grease for a specific type of grease gun. I walked in with one purpose, “I need a tube of grease that will fit a Finish Line grease gun.”

The guy at the shop made one of those that’s-not-ringing-a-bell faces with wrinkles digging in between his eyebrows. “So you need a grease gun?” he said.

“No. I need grease for a gun,” I said, attempting to describe the gun I had via hand motions. “I just need a grease tube with a 9/16″ size nozzle. Preferably something waterproof, synthetic, and heavy duty. I’m greasing some Speedplay pedals.”

“Those need to be greased?”

I left the bike shop.

Thankfully, you’re here asking me all the questions the guy at the bike shop couldn’t answer. And I’ll show you exactly how to grease your Speedplays, what type of grease to use, and how often you’ll need to service them.

How Often Should I Grease My Speedplay Pedals?

With the bike shop dude’s surprised face in mind, I’m stoked to pass along these few tips. There are some definite markers you can go by here: time, distance, and/or feel. Since these lollipops have needle bearings in order to allow for a smaller profile, it’s pretty important to lube them up more often.

The almighty voices at Speedplay recommend doing so every 2,000 miles. But, if you’re not sure when you’ve hit 2,000 miles because you’re that awesome, hit them with new grease every 3 months. It’s likely easier to mark a date on your calendar (or tell Siri to remind you in 90 days) than it is to check your bike computer’s odometer.

Of course, if you ride in super dusty or rainy/wet conditions, you’ll probably want to grease them more often (pretty much after every gnarly trek). One telltale sign that they need servicing is to spin them. Do they whiz through several revolutions before stopping? They need grease. Do they feel like you need an excessive amount of force to get through a couple of turns? They definitely need grease.

How do you know when they’re ok? If you flick the pedal, and it spins one full turn and stops, you’re looking good.

Keeping your pedals properly greased is pretty important not only to their lifespan, but also for your safety. If one or both give out, lock up, or break off, you could be spending some quality time with the asphalt. Lube those Speedplays.

What Kind of Grease Should I Use?

Here’s the thing. Speedplay has its own stuff. You can get the official and officially recommended Speedplay Grease Gun with matching grease cartridge at your LBS (you’ll have a tough time buying it online).

I’m not recommending you use anything but exactly what the manufacturer recommends. But let’s say you already happened to have a needle-tipped grease gun and maybe some proper grease. I’m not here to tell you it won’t work.

What did I personally use? Well, I have a Finish Line Grease Gun like the one pictured at left. It worked just fine, and takes any standard 9/16″ screw-cap tube of grease.

As for grease, you’ll want to avoid a few types. Definitely don’t use thin viscosity grease, sprays, or dry-lubes. The best stuff to use is waterproof, synthetic, and heavy duty. The type that works in the official Speedplay gun is actually a type of marine grease. This is good. I’ve also used Pedro’s Synthetic Grease Plus, which seems to work just fine.

What you probably don’t want to use is something like Polylube 1000. Ok, except the story I started telling you in the beginning ends with me using exactly that: Polylube 1000. Because the LBS didn’t have any clue what to give me, and I was in a hurry, and I had the stuff already sitting in my toolkit. It actually worked just fine. But you should always use the proper materials recommended by the manufacturer.

How Do I Grease Speedplay Pedals?

On to the how-to. And this couldn’t really get more simple–although it can be somewhat messy. You’ll need a few things before you get started:

1. A rag to wipe up excess grease
2. A grease gun
3. Grease that fits the grease gun
4. A number 1 philips head screwdriver

First, take your screwdriver and remove the screw on the outer plate of the pedal. Don’t pull off the cap or anything–just the super small screw (and don’t lose it in a carpet that happens to be the exact same color. I had to use a magnet).

Next, get your grease gun all set, and insert the nozzle into the hole where the screw once was (I feel like someone’s snickering right now). Inject the grease and slowly spin the pedal until you see the grease oozing out the spindle-side of the pedal. That should be not only repacking the bearings, but also forcing the dirty grease out. Keep going until the grease on the other end looks clean.

While you’re doing this, make sure you’re keeping enough pressure on the pedal at the nozzle. You don’t want the dust cap popping off.

Finally, wipe off the excess grease, and replace the screw. Boom. Done.

Thanks for the question, Steph-o. Hope your pedals are your best friends again. Got more questions? Send them along and get them answered in detail here–yah, here we’ll give you more than a one-sentence answer. Maybe too many sentences. I don’t know. Anyway, send me your questions, and become immediately more popular . . . like Steph-o.

The post How Often Do I Need to Grease Speedplay Pedals? appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Tim: Hey Alpha Ninja! What are all the categorizations of the mountains in the Tour de France? I keep seeing numbers thrown around, but I don’t quite understand what they mean.

Hey Tim: Welcome to the world’s most confusing question. OK, not that the basic classifications are confusing, but when the asphalt of the Tour de France heads skyward, things get a little air-headed.

How Are Tour de France Climbs Classified?

Each of the mountain categories get increasingly more difficult from 4 to HC. The peeps in charge determine classifications based on gradient, distance, and max elevation:

Category 4:

The easiest climbs. Like pretty much a descent for the peloton. Usually needs to be at least 4km and 4% gradient (or a steeper gradient and shorter distance)

Category 3:

Getting a little tougher here. The pros are probably having a tough time holding the high note to “Let It Go.” As a rule, around a 6% gradient for 4km or so. Sometimes shorter distances at around 8% gradient.

Category 2:

Longer climbs that are sometimes steeper. Heavier breathing for the peloton, but they’re probably still humming whatever tune keeps their minds off the men in devil costumes (or worse) running alongside them up the climbs. Generally more than 5km at 7% gradient or longer than 10km at around 5%.

Category 1:

This one has Froome studying his handlebars pretty closely as he concentrates on the glory of things like how well yellow jerseys go with his eyes. Roughly 5-10km at 8% gradient or 15km+ at 6%.

HC or “Hors Category”:

This is a slick French term that means the climb is above categorization. These are the days that sprinters buy streamers for .  . . as decorations for their pity party. Long climbs. 15km, 20km, 30km. Steep, long, brutal. At least 15km above 8%.

Subjectivity of Tour de France Climbs

So all those numbers I listed above only kind of matter. Because there’s another word that also matters: subjectivity. For instance, if organizers feel like a climb is harder, it’ll get a higher rating. Or if a Cat 1 comes near the end of a stage, it turns into an HC. So I’m happy to have sort of answered your question as it kind of applies.

Well, that’s what I’ve got. Hope it helps, Tim. You can be cool like Tim too, just send me whatever questions you’ve got, and get answers.

The post What Do The Mountain Categories Mean in The Tour de France? appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Matt: “I’m making the jump from workout shirts to a bike jersey, but I don’t know what size to buy. How should cycling jerseys fit? Do you have any recommendations for brands?”

Cool. I like your question, Matt. Because it shows a couple of things: you’ve got guts, and you want to look good. I’m for that. So here are my tips on how to get kitted up in style.

In order to answer your question, I really need to break this up into three sections: proper fit tips, brands I’m stoked about, types of cuts.

Tips for Fitting A Bike Jersey

Make it Snug: A properly fit road jersey should do a few things for you, and none of those things involve being loose. You want a firm grip at the cuffs, but not so firm that it constricts your movement or cuts off your circulation. Generally, if you can easily pinch up more than a half-inch of fabric at the sleeve’s edge, the fit is too loose. Sleeves should definitely never, ever, ever flap in the wind while you ride.

In t-shirt terms, you want something less tight than a base layer (think muscle-squeezing Under Armor shirts) but more tight than your usual workout T. That means, it should be close enough to your skin to both avoid chafing and wick sweat away, but not so form-fitting that it shows off your six pack.

Avoid Sagging Waists: For the same reason you don’t want flapping sleeves, you also don’t want a flappy, saggy waist. Get a top with waist grippers to keep the hem from hanging way, way down. If not, you’ll find your jersey getting caught on the back of your saddle, or you might have a tendency to sit on it. This tip is especially important if you plan to carry anything in your jersey pockets. And, yes, you’ll carry things in your jersey pockets.

Everyone Needs Pockets: Most road cycling tops come with the standard 3-pocket design. If you’re looking at one with fewer than that, you might want to re-think that jersey. You’ll want at least 3 pockets in the back, and an extra zippered pocket or two are also helpful (like the one on Voler’s Black Label jersey shown at the left).

Always Go Full Zip: You’ve usually got two choices here: three-quarter and full zip. Always go full zip. Not only will you be able to more easily remove or add layers on the bike, but full zips also make you look cooler. You often see the pros with their jersey fully unzipped on hot days, which is really the only time that jersey flapping is accepted.

Length Matters: When you pull on a jersey, the first thing you should do is lean over. Why? Because length is a crucial deal here. You don’t want the back of it hanging down low–it should sit right below your hip-line, generally, when you’re in your regular riding position.

You also don’t want it riding up too high either . . . for, obvious reasons. If you start revealing too much above the waistline, you’re gonna have a pretty nervous ride constantly pulling down the back of your jersey (of course, bib shorts do solve a lot of problems).

While you’re leaning over, check for zipper bunch around your stomach. Although a small fold of jersey is natural when you’re bending forward, you certainly don’t want a lot of material gathering at the front–this can often indicate whether your jersey is too long.

Hit the Fitting Room: Personally, I hate trying clothes on in a shop. It’s not my deal. But I’m telling you to get over my hang-up. You really gotta try a jersey on to see how it fits. In fact, grab a few different brands with different features, and see what you like. Yes, it will likely be tighter than what you’ve been used to with workout clothes, but you’ll get a taste for what’s good and snug or what’s lousy and constricting.

These Are My Brands

Every cyclist has different opinions on what brands they like, so really it’s a good idea to just try on a bunch. In my years of cycling and racing, I’ve hit on a few favorites because they’re consistently high quality, last a long time, and they just fit right.

Voler: Probably my favorite brand out there. Partly because they’re a local company here in the San Luis Obispo area. Voler takes nice fabrics to the limit–meaning they pour out comfortable and quality cycling clothes at every level of their brand–and it’s all made in the USA. Plus, you can find some killer closeout deals. In fact, just for being a loyal SLO Cyclist reader, you can grab $10 to spend on your first order. Yes, I definitely recommend Voler. You might also want to check out some of our reviews for more info.

Santini: Another brand that just tends to pretty much bring it every time, Santina’s upper level kits are all-day comfortable. But you’ll definitely want to go with the upgraded portions of their line. We’ve reviewed a few Santini kits too.

Castelli: They’re just winners. Although the downside with Castelli is generally the price, their kits will last you a long time, and keep you riding in high-tech comfort. Plus, their color schemes are pretty subtle for instant road cred.

Now a Word About Cuts

• Cuts and brands fit differently. There are not only various brands, but also various fits within those brands–which means you’ll really need to try on a kit before you buy it, or measure yourself carefully if you’re buying online. There are generally three main categories of fit:
  • Club Cut: Looser, more relaxed fit. These often don’t have much by way of silicone grippers at the waist or sleeves, and only a 3/4 length zipper. Shorts and bibs often have lighter compression, less “technical” material, and may or may not have leg grippers at the thighs. The club cut is usually worn by cyclists who aren’t looking for high performance, or don’t really feel totally comfortable in spandex just yet.
  • Race: Generally more form fitting with higher compression values, mock necks, full zips, grippers at the waist, sleeves, and thighs. Most cyclists tend to gravitate toward these cuts.
  • Aero (sometimes called “Pro”): Yah, just “super tight.” Aero cuts are generally meant to fit like a second skin. And this skin ain’t got no give. Jerseys are often shorter waisted, and cuffs are seamless in transition from your own skin to the fabric. On these, you might also consider going one size up.

These fits, of course, aren’t universal across companies, so you’ll have to find out specifics for the brand you’re looking into.

• European brands usually run smaller than US brands. Some Italian brands are up to 2 sizes smaller in fit. Various brands will fit differently as will Euro brands, which generally run one or two sizes smaller than US sizes.

Well, that’s what I’ve got. Hope it helps, Matt. If you’ve got more questions, send them along. Then you can be cool like Matt too.

In case you haven’t noticed, we’ve got a new contributing writer taking over our ever-popular readers’ questions section. Now re-labeled Ask Alpha Ninja, here our very own Alpha Ninja is voicing opinions and helping you with cycling’s toughest questions. You know, the questions that require serious brainpower, exceptional bike skills, and fearless vernacular to answer. Like, “Does this jersey make me look faster?”

Cover Photo by Ruaraidh Gillies

The post How Should Cycling Jerseys Fit? appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Michael: “I’ve been training with just a heart rate monitor for a while, but I’ve been reading about power meters. What is the difference, and why would I need a power meter?”

All right Michael, now this is a serious question. While you can certainly make great strides training with heart rate zones, there are a few downsides when using an HRM in conjunction with a training plan. Heart rate numbers give you a reaction to your effort, and there is always a lag in moving your heart rate into the zone you’re targeting.

In other words, say an interval requires you to hit a heart rate zone between 130-140 bpm for 2 minutes. You’ll need to push your heart rate into that zone in order to complete the interval, but your effort at the beginning or end of the interval won’t be consistent–you’ll likely expend too much energy in the beginning and struggle to catch up to that over-exertion at the end. It’s somewhat of an inaccurate measurement.

So, while training with an HRM can definitely give you results (not to mention keep you from blowing your monthly budget), it will only show you the result of the effort you’re putting out. It can also fluctuate based on whether or not you’re tired, and you’ll have a more difficult time getting your heart rate up even though you might actually be putting out the correct effort.

Training with Power

A power meter, on the other hand, shows you exactly what kind of effort you’re pushing. Since this will measure your output, you’ll be able to immediately see when you’re in a certain zone. You can push to the number of watts you’re supposed to hit and keep it there throughout the duration of an interval or session. This can revolutionize your training and will show you some serious results.

But first you’ll need to learn a few things about using power. You’ll need to do a ride that measures your Functional Threshold Power (FTP), meaning the effort you can sustain for an extended period without getting totes worn out. So if you know you can hit 600 watts for 15 seconds, then you’ll probably try not to hit 600 watts until 15 seconds from the finish line. Basically, this can help you to push your fitness during training rides, keep your efforts measured on a climb, and affirm your awesomeness in measurables to anyone you come in contact with–and they all want to hear exactly how many watts you hit on that third hill. For reals.

Using a Training Plan

All of what I just told you is tempered with the idea that you’ll be using your power meter with some sort of structure. It’s a serious investment–although most manufacturers seem to be chasing a more accessible price point these days–and you’ll want to be sure that you’re actually using it. If you don’t know your FTP, and don’t use training targets, it’ll really just be like taping a month’s rent (or way more) to your bike and riding around with it. Who needs the extra grams, right?

So we definitely encourage you to choose a plan that makes certain you get the most benefit from your serious investment. We’ve been using The Sufferfest’s plans (don’t worry, that’s not a paid endorsement!) and writing about it weekly in our training diaries. Their video, The Rubber Glove, will give you your FTP and set you on the right course. We highly recommend The Sufferfest–it will give you some brag-about-them results.

So Do I Really Need It?

If you’re serious about racing, and you’re using it to dictate your training and rides, then you certainly will benefit from a power meter. If you’re really just on the bike to get fit and maybe compete in a few charity rides, then a heart rate monitor should give you the numbers you need to go faster, farther.

So there’s our answer, Michael. Let us know if you do pick up a power meter, and how you like it!

Got a burning question? Send it over to us, and we’ll answer to the best of our ability. Because it’s important to remember, there are no stupid questions. And anonymity is really cool too.

Photo by Glory Cycles

The post Do You Really Need a Power Meter? When A Heart Rate Monitor Isn’t Enough appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Reese: “I’ve been watching the pro cyclists in the Tour de France this year, and I’ve heard some speeds thrown out here and there, but I can’t seem to figure out how fast they’re really going. What is a rider’s average speed in miles per hour?”

This is a popular question, Reese. In fact, you’re one of about 30 people to ask us this since the beginning of this year’s Tour de France. While there’s not a simple answer to your question, we can break it down into a few generalities here.

FLATS

In 2015, Rohan Dennis broke a record for the fastest average speed in a time trial at 34.5 miles per hour (55.446kmph). As a rule, the pack can hammer on flats at around 26-29mph. That certainly varies, and you’ll often hear Paul and Phil talk about how the peloton is moving at well over 30mph.

SPRINTS

When the pack hits a sprint finish, it can often stamp out speeds of over 40mph. In fact, Andre Greipel’s uploaded Strava data from Stage 5 showed that he had to hit 43.5mph (70km) in order to win.

CLIMBS

Yesterday, Dan Martin was reported as climbing the Pyrenees at 12mph. THE PYRENEES. Based on my research, it seems that most climbs are done at around 12-14mph–and we’re talking about some serious gradients and after several hours in the saddle for days on end. Of course, many of us could probably climb pretty well with all those hours put in. Except for we sprinters, amiright?

WINNING SPEED

Over the last several years, the winner of the tour has posted an overall average speed of right around 25mph (40kmph)–but that encompasses an entire tour. Uphill, downhill, time trial, flatland, it’s all averaged at 25mph. A little faster than us. A little.

But that’s us. How do you stack up?

The post What’s the Average Speed of Tour de France Riders in MPH? appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Bethany: “I have no clue what tire size to ask for at my bike shop. What do all those numbers on my sidewall mean?”

The great range of mysterious numbers on your sidewall are only complicated by the weird numbers you’ve also got on your wheel rim. Plenty of people are just as confused by these numbers as you, and I’m sure a few of them are still pretty dang good bike riders.

Assuming we’re only talking road bikes, you really only need to know what two of the numbers mean. Take the photo to the right, for example, and you’ll see two lines: 23-622 and 700x23c.

Reading 23-622: The first number refers to the width of the tire once it’s fully inflated. So, in this case, the tire to the right is a 23mm tire. The 622 is what’s called a “bead seat diameter,” which means it’s the diameter where the bead of the tire–basically the edge of the sidewall–meets and is held into the rim (an internal measurement of sorts).

Reading 700x23c: The second line is really all you’ll need to remember when you head into a bike shop. On road bikes, you’ll generally find one of two different sizes here: 650c and 700c. The 700c tire is more common on road bikes (let’s all avoid the whole 650 vs. 700 debate here, because 700’s are clearly cooler, right? *note hint of sarcasm), and that number technically refers to the outside diameter of the tire. I’m not going to go into all the confusing realities of the tire measurements and such, because the actual sizes get a bit messy. But that’s a general idea of what these numbers mean. Just know that a 700c won’t interchange with a 650c and vice versa.

I will tell you, however, that if you don’t know what to ask for at the bike shop, simply tell them you need this second number: 700x23c. They’ll point you to a range of tires that will certainly fit. If you want to impress the person at the bike shop, nonchalantly mention that the ISO number is 23-622. You’re essentially telling them the same thing, you’re just acting cooler about it. If, on the other hand, you’ve got a rim with no tire, you can read the corresponding numbers on the rim, or you can just take it into the shop and they’ll get you fitted up.

Tire Width: Now I just briefly touched on widths earlier. But this is a trendy topic these days. I recently made the switch to 25mm tires. Why? Because they’re cushy, so they make for a super comfortable ride when you’re really putting in the kilometers. But the wider tire, in relation to your rim, will often reduce the aerodynamic property of your rims (assuming they are aero) and add some grams to your weight. For most people, the trade-off is a no-brainer. In fact, plenty of pros these days race on 25’s. If you’re on 23mm tires now, you might consider making the switch–it’s a noticeable difference.

I’ve even heard predictions that the 28mm tire will soon be the thing, but not every road bike these days will fit a 28. So make sure you know they’ll squeeze into your frame and between your brakes before you empty your pockets for those uber-comfy 28’s.

Fantastic question, Bethany. Are you thinking of switching up tire widths? Let me know in the comments!

Got a burning question? Send it over to me, and I’ll answer to the best of my ability. Because it’s important to remember, there are no stupid questions. And anonymity is really cool too.

The post What Size Are My Road Bike Tires? – Decoding Sidewall Numbers appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Jared: “I’ve never changed the tires on my bike, and I’ve had it for two years. How do I know when I need new ones?”

Jared: Back in college, I had a teammate on the triathlon team whose tires were practically leaking threads–always. One ride, we all went through a patch of glass (because for some reason, the tri team was too cool to point out objects. Instead, the leader would call out, “Glass!” and the rest of the group would look at each other and ask, “What did he say?” as we were riding through glass) and his tire blew out. Badly. He pulled to the roadside and proceeded to swap the tube.

As a group, we all exchanged concerned looks. The tire was pretty shredded, but he somehow made it home, and we all figured that surely on the next ride he would have a brand new set of tires. Well, he did have something new: a shiny carbon TT bike. But lo and behold, his tires were the same bald and bleeding set.

I’m not sure why I told you that story. I like telling stories. Especially when they’re not about me. But if your tires are anywhere near as worn as my freind’s tires, you’re definitely in for a new set.

How Many Miles Can I Get?

Most bike tires wear out after a few thousand miles, depending on the brand and model. Some manufacturers make tires that will last upwards of 6,000 miles, but more often they will need to be replaced closer to ever 2,000 miles. If you’re putting in long, regular rides, you’ll likely be buying a new set a few times per year. But often you’ll find that the back tire wears out about twice as fast as the front.

Conventional wisdom–meaning something about physics and weight and stuff–says that you’ll want your front tire to show less wear. Often, riders will rotate the front tire to the rear and replace the front with a brand new one. Since bike trainers will also beat them up at a pretty fair rate, I like to use the worn one on a spare wheel and keep it exclusively for my indoor workouts. It allows you to keep safer tires on the road, but still get plenty of use out of the ones that you swap out.

How Do I Know if My Tire is Worn Out?

If you see threads/fabric through the rubber, you’ll likely need a new one. If the tire is bulging, thin, or looks irregular, you’ll certainly need a new one. If you see any types of slashes from road debris or cracking along the sidewalls, you’ll probably need a new one.

One note, I tend to fall on the side of caution and replace tires more often. I’d rather not start worrying about their integrity on a 45mph descent.

One last piece of advice, make sure that you keep both wheels properly inflated. If you don’t, you’ll ruin the sidewalls (among other things), and you’ll be at greater risk of a blowout. 80-110 psi is the general rule of thumb, but it also depends on your weight, the weather, and personal preference (yeah, that answered it, right?).

Thanks for the question, Jared. Get out and ride to your LBS to check out a few options. They should be able to steer you toward a good set of sweet new tires.

Got a burning question? Send it over to me, and I’ll answer to the best of my ability. Because it’s important to remember, there are no stupid questions. And anonymity is really cool too.

The post How Often Should I Replace My Bike Tires? appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.