As someone who has done their fair share of annoyingly long rides, I often get asked “What’s the key to being on your bike for so long?” While I don’t have all of the answers, here are some key tips that I swear by. Whether you’re getting ready for your first 20+ mile ride or gearing up for your first century, I highly recommend trying the strategies listed below.

Click Here for the Spark Notes Version

Tip #1. EAT

Fueling is crucial, especially on rides over an hour or two. Forget the complex formulas; keep it simple: have a carb-rich snack every 45-60 minutes. If you struggle with solid food, try liquid calories from drink mixes. The best snacks are the ones you enjoy and want to eat.

Tip #2: Ride at a Comfortable Pace

Unless you’re a pro or just a plain masochist, don’t try to go full speed on long rides. Instead, ride in the magical Zone Two, the sweet spot for aerobic and endurance gains. If you can chat while riding, you’re probably in the right zone. Heavy breathing? You’re going too hard.

Tip #3: Ride a Bike that Fits Well

Comfort is crucial. Joint pain or discomfort on long rides usually means your bike fit is off. A proper bike fit helps you ride more efficiently and comfortably. Professional fits can be pricey but are worth it to ride pain-free. However!! Remember that you know your body best, so if a certain measurement/ fit feels right for you, go with it even if the bike fitter says otherwise.

For those of you opting for the longer version (proud of you), let’s dive in.

Tip #1. EAT

People tend not to realize how important fueling is on the bike, especially on rides over an hour or two. While the internet can go into immense detail and offer formulas to calculate exactly how much you should be eating, I like to keep it simple and go by this simple rule for training rides: Have a carbohydrate-rich snack every 45min-60min. Rule of thumb: it’s far easier to eat too little during a ride than too much, so if you want a snack sooner than 45-60 min, have one!

What should you eat on the bike? Well, there are so many options!! There are a ton of options designed specifically for exercise such as GU gels, Honey Stinger waffles, Bonk Breakers energy bars, and more. These are great for races and when you want the most optimal cycling nutrition. However, they are more expensive than non cycling-specific alternatives. If you’re a broke college student like me or not wanting to spend as much money for training ride fuel, there are plenty of more budget friendly alternatives that do the trick. Some of my go-to favorites are fruit snacks, gummy bears, cookies, or GoGo Squeeze apple sauce pouches.

Some people struggle to get down calories during rides (I’m this way in races, it sucks), so if you fall in that boat, liquid calories from drink mixes are a great way to get the fuel you need during long rides. They also offer important electrolytes and other good stuff, so drink mix is really just good all around even if you have no problem getting down nutrition during rides. Fluid is a local company with great hydration options. Their cinnamon-vanilla recovery mix is also TO DIE FOR. Personally, my go-to race hydration mix is GU Roctane Summit Tea drink mix. It is high in calories, packed with good stuff, and has a very mellow and yummy flavor that my sensitive stomach and get down.

Tip #2: Ride at a comfortable pace

Unless you’re a pro rider, attempting a multi-hour ride at top speed most likely won’t go well. The key to riding for a long time is riding at a sustainable pace. There’s this magical thing called Zone Two, which is the optimal zone (a specific range of heart rate or power outputs that correspond to different levels of exercise intensity) for aerobic and endurance gains. If you’re riding in zone two, you should be able to maintain a conversation. If you’re breathing heavily, there’s a 99.9% chance that you are riding too hard. Zone two is the key for enjoyable and beneficial long rides.

Additional Zone Two Info

For the number geeks: If you train off heart rate data, zone one two means riding between 60 to 70 percent of your maximum heart rate. For example, if I had a max heart rate of 200 bpm, zone two for me would mean riding between 120 and 140 bpm. If you train off power meter data, you probably already know what zone two means, but here’s a link just in case. Ps. if you’re reading this and have no clue what I’m talking about, don’t sweat it… pls. Often times, the best way to enjoy things is to keep it simple.

Tip #3. Ride a bike that fits well.

Comfort is key, and joint pain/discomfort on long rides is most likely due to an improper bike fit. In addition tp helping you ride more efficiently, a properly fitted bike will help make your body comfortable and mind happy. Bike fits do cost a bit of money, but they are crucial to anyone having discomfort on the bike (discomfort meaning pain in your back, knees, arms, neck, etc). Finding a good and affordable place to get a bike fit can be tricky, but we’re in luck because Humberto at Art’s Cyclery gives great and affordable bike fits.

Rule of thumb #3: Bike fitters are incredibly knowledgeable, however, you will always be the most knowledgeable about your body and how it feels. If a certain measurement or fit feels right for you, go with it even if the bike fit says otherwise.

These tips have helped me conquer many long rides, and I hope they work for you too. Happy cycling!

The post Key Tips for Riding Further on the Bike appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Have you been missing the most honest, practical, entertaining, and occasionally funny cycling content in San Luis Obispo? Well, good news! It’s back.

Why should you listen to me?? Well… quite honestly I can’t give any great reasons, but I’ve learned a lot throughout multiple years of riding/racing and have experienced how great (and occasionally not great) the cycling community can be. From important lessons I’ve learned on and off the bike to gear reviews and things I wish I knew when I first started riding, I can promise to share my honest, raw, and unfiltered thoughts on whatever you’d like to hear about.

The post We’re Back! Official 2024 Debut appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

If you’ve ever slapped on a cheap lid from 1994, you know the term Mushroom Head intimately. Perhaps that experience has led you to searching for the best bike helmets. Guess what? You’re not alone. We’ve also been on a journey to finding stylish cycling lids that banish the old school mushroom-head look.

In fact, we got all of our staffers in on the hunt–trying out helmet after helmet to get a feel for what looks stylish on most heads. We’re using the following criteria to compile our list: FIT, COMFORT, SLEEK PROFILE, LACK OF BULK, and SAFETY.

We’ve narrowed it down to 8 of the best bike helmets that hit these criteria for the most people.

OUR PICKS FOR THE BEST LOOKING BIKE HELMETS OF 2017

Below, we’ve got all the helmets listed out by Manufacturer including links to our trusted online retailers that carry them. Plus, we’ve found the cheapest prices (as of this writing) for you and listed it below. Easy stuff!

Small note: If you’re buying from Amazon, please make sure you buy from a reputable seller! Counterfeits do happen.

Best Bike Helmets by Giro: Cinder, Synthe, Foray

Giro Foray

MSRP: $85

Giro’s complete line of helmets are less bulky than they used to be, and their road-worthy aero offerings look much better than more space-ship-styled brands. We’ve got 3 helmets by Giro that will make sure you’ll look good.

The Foray, Giro’s cheapest option here, looks great and sits close to your head. Honestly, most people won’t know you’re not wearing a $250+ lid.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com | Ribble Cycles

Cheapest Price: Currently, Competitive Cyclist has the Foray for $45.46

Giro Cinder

MSRP: $150

Moving up the line, the Cinder offers aero and stylish benefits without the huge price tag of their top-of-the-line racing helmet, this season’s Synthe. In fact, the Cinder actually fits a bit narrower than the Synthe for an even less mushroom-head look.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com | Ribble Cycles

Cheapest Price: Currently, Competitive Cyclist has it for $104

Giro Synthe

MSRP: $250

The Synthe offers about a 30 gram drop in weight as well as larger vents for more cooling power and higher aero properties. At full price, it’s a $100+ jump for the premium features of the Synthe. One that I don’t think warrants making the leap, unless you’re doing a lot of hot weather rides or climbing.

Do note, however, Giro tends to fit a more oval shaped head, so make sure to try it on before you buy. Rounder heads will likely feel pressure points.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com | Ribble Cycles

Cheapest Price: Right now, you can get a Giro Synthe for a mere $125 at Competitive Cyclist.

Best Bike Helmets by Kask: Mojito

You’ve probably seen the Mojito on some Team Sky heads in seasons past. And for good reasons. There’s nothing quite like the Italian comfort and finishing touches (we’re talking leather straps, people) that Kask puts into their helmets.

The retention system is fully articulated to pull down and up so that it fits your head just right–and in the cases of ponytails, they always fit. Available in a detailed range of colors, you’re bound to find one that matches your bike–assuming you’re into that sort of thing–or your favorite kit.

If you’re not really ready to spend nearly $300 on other helmets, but you still want a premium helmet, you can grab similar styling for less cash with Kask’s Mojito. At 220 grams and with 26 vents, it’s relatively light and allows for plenty of air flow. Even on some of the warmest days, the Mojito makes for a comfortable and super stylish head.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Cheapest Price: At the time of this writing, Jenson USA has the Mojito for just over $150.

Best Bike Helmets By Lazer: Blade, Z1

Lazer Blade

MSRP: $95

A much more cost-effective helmet with plenty of trickle-down tech from Lazer’s Z1. Fits lots of head shapes, and at just $95 it’s hard to go wrong. With 22 vents, it does a decent job of keeping your head cool; though, not quite as well as the Z1.

While Lazer claims the Blade weighs in at 240 grams, it’s actually closer to 290 on our scale. So, I wouldn’t let the weight sway you on this one.

The Rollsys dial at the top of the helmet makes fitting it precisely to my head a serious dream, and it fits pony-tails without any hassle because the retention system sits above your gathered hair (none of that pulling your hair through the loop business). It actually casts a slimmer and sleeker profile than the more expensive Z1, and it carries plenty of top-level features. It’s hard to go wrong with the Blade.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Cheapest Price: Currently, Jenson USA has the Blade MIPS at 20% off with code SAVE20

Lazer Z1

MSRP: $270+

That having been said about the Blade, I also own and ride regularly with the Z1. And, in fact, it’s one of my favorite helmets. The comfort and performance is peerless. While it does cast a slightly larger profile than the Blade, it still avoids mushroom-head by a good bit. This helmet looks stylish, fits fantastically wonderful, and has the best retention system I’ve ever used.

While the $270+ price tag may be a bit too hefty for most, the Z1 definitely delivers. Massively cool with 31 vents and weighing at sub-200 grams, this is a serious contender for competitive riders.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Current Cheapest Price: At the time of this writing, Competitive Cyclist has the premium Lazer Z1 on sale starting at $120! I’d definitely go for the upgrade here.

Best Bike Helmets of 2017: Kali Phenom, Chakra

Kali Phenom

MSRP: $160

Kali is blazing new trails of safety, and their helmet always carry a unique design. The Phenom fits a surprising number of faces and head shapes without looking bulky or lame. At $160 MSRP, it’s one of the cheaper offerings for a high-end helmet.

The Phenom uses Kali’s “conehead” technology that crumples to direct energy to the sides if the helmet without the vents collapsing. All this and super padding (Bumperfit) that feels extremely comfortable and moulds to your own personal head with memory foam. The look is sleek and slim, so you’re never in danger of mushroom-head here.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Current Cheapest Price: Hashtag Bikes via Amazon has the Phenom for $126, but they’re not a seller we’ve used. Proceed with caution. We’d recommend going with the next cheapest, Jenson USA at $149.

Kali Chakra

MSRP: $55

All right, I know what you’re thinking. It’s got a visor. That’s no helmet for a roadie! I thought the same thing until I saw how the Chakra looked without the visor (pops off pretty easily). Oh, and the price tag is super tempting. About $50 gets you a sweet helmet that banishes bulk, and looks great with any kit–on road or off. And it’s sub-300 grams. Not shabby.

In fact, this puppy has great cooling factor with 25 vents, an easily adjustable dial-fit system at the back of the head, and it sits lower to protect a larger area. Plus, it comes in a huge variety of colors. Honestly, I have two friends who regularly wear this helmet on road rides, and it looks great, fits great, and performs great.

Kali also has the Chakra Plus version with 22 vents that sits about 30 grams heavier. But this one is marketing with greater strength in construction over the regular version. We, clearly, haven’t tested the differences in the two, but the Chakra Plus is going for the same price as the regular version over at Competitive Cyclist, which may make the choice moot.

If you don’t want to drop a ton of cash, but you still want a good look, Kali’s Chakra is a great choice.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Cheapest Price: Currently, Bike Nashbar is selling the Chakra Plus via Amazon.com for just $19.99

SOME FINAL THOUGHTS

As always, although you might be tempted to grab the helmet that appeals most to your aesthetic, there is one key factor you’ve just got to consider: fit. Even the most awesome, lightest, and bluest lid won’t help you much if it’s uncomfortable. Just ask my old Giro Atmos how often we rode together after I found it created painful pressure points on my forehead.

Try it on. Make sure you’ll really love it.

And, of course, these aren’t the only cool lids we’ve seen. But these are the best bike helmets we’ve personally tried. Have any you’d like to add to the list? Let us know!

If you’re still on the hunt for the best bike helmets, you might also like our articles on Giro’s foray into affordable MIPS helmets, or Kali’s innovative research into reducing concussions with LDL technology.

The post The 8 Best Bike Helmets of 2017 – Styles That Look Good On Everyone appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

THE PROPER CARE OF CLEATS

Sick of spending money on cleats only to have them dinged up, dirty, and ready for the dustbin?

Thanks to our great friends over at Bike Fit, we’ve got expert tips for you to not only increase the lifespan of your cleats, but to help keep you safer on the bike.

Hey, and be sure to check out Bike Fit’s other in-depth articles at BikeFit.com

HOW TO MAKE YOUR CYCLING CLEATS LAST LONGER: MAINTENANCE TIPS

• Amazing bike–check.
• Ergonomic handlebar–check.
• Comfortable and elegantly stylish shoes–check.
• Wheelset that costs more than my monthly food bill–check.
• Well-maintained cleats–what?

Leave it to us at BikeFit to focus on the small things but sometimes, those are the ones that have the most significant impact.  If you’ve ever managed to unclip at top speed and lived to tell the tale, then you understand the imperative nature of simple cleat maintenance or you’re Robert Forestermann and you literally double strap your clipless cleats to absorb your massive, cleat-disengaging watts.  Now that you’ve returned from watching Quadzilla crush it, here are some simple tips to help you care for your cleats.

SO FRESH AND SO CLEAN CLEATS

Although changing your cleats every 6 months would provide you with a fool-proof method of riding with well-functioning cleats, you can easily extend their life through some simple maintenance.

We recommend periodically checking your cleats for debris, especially if you walk often on your rides.  Dirt and dust quickly build up from road and trail debris.  These impediments can interfere with the ability to click-in and release from your pedals.

The BikeFit Cleat Screw Pick is an ideal solution.  Some people have used a knife or a small screwdriver but the specifically designed screw pick will help you dig out miles of caked on dirt and grime without the risk of lacerating your fingers.

FASTEN YOUR CLEATS

Cleat screw fasteners and the screws themselves can potentially loosen over time.  There may or may not be a story of a BikeFit employee that did not check his screws often and found himself pulling out of a criterium race due to his epically loose, rattling cleat almost falling off.  Be sure to check that they are tight.  If you are riding Speedplay pedals, check the base screws as well as the cleat screws.

Secondly, screw heads attract some of the worst immovable debris and get worn down to the point where you may be unable to remove them without some serious hacksaw interventions (see described hacksaw interventions to thy below).

https://vimeo.com/237789271

If the cleat wear impacts your ability to clip in, release, or you feel wobbles or an unsteady connection with the pedal, it’s time to replace the cleats.  If not, you may only need to replace the screw heads themselves.  While we carry a Screw Kit (contains the aforementioned Screw Pick) and a Walkable Screw Kit (Speedplay), you may not need bulk screws.  Therefore we suggest visiting your local BikeFit Pro or dealer, with your favorite sharable adult beverage, and they’ll be able to sell you some replacements.

IT TAKES TWO

Cleats materials have a limited lifespan depending on the usage.  They will eventually wear out and when you replace them, pick up a spare set as well.  Heck, you could go out tomorrow and pick up a second set even if your cleats are impeccable.  You’ll need to replace them eventually and again, your local shop loves when you visit with liquid hops-o-plenty and a need for new cleats!

Having a second pair of cleats allows you to inspect the excessive wear and tear from riding all those grand tours.  Use these spares as subjects to compare against the used ones.  Do they look like the cleats above? Too much wear (1mm or more) and it’s probably time to consider replacing cleats.

FOR GOD SAKES, COVER UP!

Depending on your cleats, some handle the grit and grime better than others.  Regardless, if you want to extend cleat life, consider cleat covers.

Speedplay recognized that numerous riders were shredding their cleats and now they offer some incredibly functional and aero Walkable Cleats.  Kool Kovers provide riders with multiple options of protective cleat covers for Shimano, Look Keo, Look Delta and Speedplay.

Yes, it may take you all of 8 seconds to remove them and reinstall after each of your 4 coffee stops, but extending the life of your cleats not only saves you money but also could prevent a potentially painful and skin-removing crash.

Ride safe and comfortable my friends.

-BikeFit

Published with permission. All images copyright Bike Fit.

The post How To Make Your Cycling Cleats Last Longer appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

It’s an age-old debate, and one that you might not think could be so explosive: cardboard vs bags vs hard cases. Amidst all the name-calling and the moderated forum posts, it’s pretty tough to decide what actually is the best method for traveling with your bike.

Fortunately, with the help of SCI-CON (makers of the oh-so-sweet rain bag), we’ve got an interactive infographic that will give you the low-down on exactly each pro and con of the three most popular bike packing methods.

Because, heck a cardboard box is cheap (or maybe even free), but there are some situations where spending some cash on a hard shell case will be worth it. Answer some easy questions, click along, and find out exactly what method will work best for you.

THE BEST WAY TO PACK A BIKE: CARDBOARD VS BAG VS HARD SHELL CASE

Click on the image below to view the best bike carrying case based on your top priorities: level of protection, portability, ease of packing, durability, or price.

If you want a more awesome, visual, and shape-y way to view the above information, check out the next infographic. This one has diagrams with a summary of all the information you’ll find above.

Of course, you can also link over to the full article at SCI-CON for a full explanation of their charts. They discuss every aspect of packing up and traveling with your bike in detail: from how difficult it is to drag a cardboard box around an airport to how much the weight of a bike case comes into play.

But, hey, how do you fly or bus or train (is that right?) your bike from race to race or adventure to adventure or place to place? Be sure to get in touch with us to let us know.

The post The Best Way To Travel With Your Bike: Cardboard Box vs Bag vs Hard Case appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

A little searching at bike reviews and articles for “affordable” bikes will land you some interesting results. Apparently, affordable means spending at least $1500 but less than $2500.

That may be fine for some riders, but there are plenty of us out there who know the true meaning of “affordability.” So for all you wallet-conscious roadies out there, we’ve been building our Budget Cycling category with tons of tips and guides to getting a good deal on new and used cycling stuff.

Today, we’ve got the most requested guide for you: How to Buy a Road Bike on the Cheap.

Buying a Road Bike on a Budget

First, let’s start with a little advice on what not to buy. Any cheap Schwinn you see at Wal-Mart rolled back to any price is not worth it. Although these sub-$200 road bikes might seem tempting, you’re really not getting much value for your cash. What you will get is a cheaply made, incorrectly assembled, ultra heavy (and we’re not just being weight weenies about this), non-standard bike with parts that will be a pain to find/replace when they do break. So we’re not just being snobby when we avoid the bike aisle at Target–we’re saving money.

And yes, we’ve looked through the stock at Amazon.com, and we’re sorry to say that’s a waste of time and money too.

So the rant is done. Now what?

You’ve got a few ways to go here:

• A new, brand name bike
• An older bike you can fix up at your local bike kitchen
• A Craig’s List find.
• Discounted bikes at your LBS and respected online retailers

Also, if you’re really in the market for your first road bike and don’t quite know what you’re looking for, you might like our long-winded article with some tips for buying your first bike.

Brand Name And New

There’s nothing wrong with the low-end bikes of major manufacturers (or many low-end bikes of smaller manufacturers). Although some of the groupsets may not be as reliable, some of these are fantastic value and just plain good bikes. Here are several we like (and a couple we’ve owned ourselves). But one caveat, the prices here are the manufacturer’s suggested retail. It’s quite likely that your local bike shop will sell these for quite a bit less–especially if they’ve got last year’s model hanging around.

Giant Defy & Avail ($640)

Specialized Allez ($770)

Cannondale CAAD 8 ($870)

Bianchi Via Nirone ($850)

Those are mere ideas. All great bikes. All will get you a decent start on the road, and should last a long while. But I know what you’re saying, those are all close to $1,000! Right? Well here’s the deal. Don’t pay that price.

Definitely go to your local bike shops and see what they have. For instance, a few years back, I bought a brand new Specialized Allez at Art’s Cyclery for $500. Our editor-in-chief bought her Cannondale R500 new for $400. It can be done. Just keep the patience high.

How to Get a Great Deal on a Road Bike

1. Don’t be afraid of a classic. An old school Cannondale, Bianchi, Trek, or other quality bike that was good enough for the Tour de France 10 years ago will definitely take you a long way these days too. We’d recommend buying a bike that was once mid-range to high-end in order to get the best bang for your pedal stroke. Bikepedia.com has tons of info on all sorts of makes and models, original prices, and stock components. Before you buy any bike, do your homework first. 

Now where can you find speedy old bikes? Well, if you have a local Bike Kitchen like we do here in SLO, you’ll easily be able to grab a decent road model for around $100. You might also want to check out our classic article on why finding an older bike is actually quite a lot of fun.  But if you don’t have an organization around you like the Bike Kitchen, your next best bet will likely be places like . . . 

2. Craig’s List, which is a great place to find a used bike as long as you’re careful. In fact, we’ve put together an extensive guide on how to buy a used bike on Craig’s List (or any used bike for that matter) that should help to ensure you don’t get taken. But do remember to stay safe when dealing with strangers, and it’s usually a good idea to do a quick search at Bike Index to make sure that ride isn’t stolen.

3. Don’t be afraid to buy old stock. Just because a bike has been at your LBS for a year or more doesn’t mean it’s rotted away. Last year’s model or a demo bike can sometimes be a fantastic value. Don’t be afraid to ask the employees if they have any stock on sale–if you’re friendly and tell them you really would rather buy local than over the internet, they will often go out of their way to help.

Our local bike shop, Art’s Cyclery, has hooked us up in the past. Check out their sale bikes here, and let them know we sent ya.

4. Buying online can sometimes be a good way to go, but know who you’re buying from. If you’re shopping at an online bike shop in Connecticut, that’s great, but do your homework on them before you shell out your cash. Also, be prepared to add an extra $100 or so in shipping–and make sure you’re OK with putting back together a somewhat disassembled bike.

We are cool with online retailers like Competitive Cyclist, Chain Reaction Cycles, and Jenson USA. In fact, we’ve included some of their sale bikes below that we think are pretty decent deals (this does include some heavy markdowns that are maybe not quite as budget conscious as we’d like, but still killer deals):

So that’s our guide. We hope it helps you find a sweet ride. If you got questions or comments, let us know with a quick email or just type it below.

This article was originally published on 7-28-2015, but we did some overhauling to make it better on 9-12-2016. Why? Cuz you’re cool, and you deserve it. Also cuz we were bored.

The post How to Buy a Road Bike on the Cheap – Getting a Great Deal on Your Next Ride appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

I knew that crashing one day was an inevitability. It was a Friday, so a few members of my team and myself set out on our usual Friday Ride. It’s a mostly casual scenic route with four sprint sections to keep things interesting. Before long we came upon the first: a long, deserted stretch of road on a very slight downhill gradient. My legs were feeling great and I wanted to contest this sprint. I sat myself on the wheel of the fastest rider in our group and stayed there as the pace increased.

Suddenly, one of the guys sprang forward, and everyone else reacted just as suddenly. Then all I remember was a touch of wheels, swerving, and then closing my eyes in defeat the moment I knew I was about to hit asphalt at sprint speed. Coincidentally I wasn’t the only one to crash in this event, but I arguably got the worst of it. Luckily the shock held off the pain from the numerous bruises and patches of fresh road rash long enough for me to get home. Still, I was completely rattled. The crash had taken a toll on my body – I was to be sore for days – but I was also mentally and emotionally shaken.

So that you can learn from my experience too, let’s talk about some of the things I later realized I did right (and wrong).

On Helmets and Shirt Sleeves

I had a lot of cycling-related “aha” moments from that crash. For one, the importance of the helmet became all to clear. I never doubted the necessity of wearing a helmet whenever I hit the road, but it never quite strikes you how necessary until your skull meets asphalt for the first time.

It became evident things could have been a lot worse if I wasn’t wearing a helmet. Admittedly, things also could have been a lot better if I was wearing my helmet properly. I didn’t have the chin strap tight enough, and I still clearly remember the terrifying moment I thought it was going to slip off before I came to a stop. Take it from me, keep that thing tight and fitted properly.

Fitting Your Helmet Properly

The Bicycle Highway Safety Institute, which basically looks at everything bike helmet-related, has some great tips for fitting your helmet properly. If you want to make sure your chin strap is tightened better than mine was, check out their site–they recommend a simple test: open your mouth wide and make sure the straps pull the helmet down a bit. You also want to make sure that it sits correctly on your head all together. Check the fit guidelines for your particular helmet, and, remember, helmets are cool. Even that $15 velvet one at Costco.

Just Wear the Sleeves

Another lesson I learned wasn’t so obvious beforehand: there’s a reason cyclists wear sleeves. I thought it was just a fashion thing, and I couldn’t care less. Up until that crash I almost always wore tank tops over anything that covered my shoulders. I know, I know, it was amateur hour whenever I hit the road. Fortunately, that day was an exception, and that shirt saved my shoulder from much worse. My shoulder and hip (covered by my spandex shorts) were the two primary contact points that slid along the pavement. I still have that shirt and pair of shorts, and fortunately only minor scars where they were covering, as a souvenir. For comparison I have a few gnarly road rash scars on my forearm and lower leg. I’m still guilty of wearing a tank top on the occasional hot, casual ride, but if you’re going anywhere fast, cover your shoulders. Plus, you look way more pro.

Shock & Adrenaline: Nature’s Vicodin

Shock and adrenaline are powerful drugs. The crash gave me road rash all down my left leg and forearm, nasty bruises on my hip and right leg, minor whiplash, and numerous other little bumps and bruises, but I didn’t feel any of it at first. I was also in a weird mental state, somewhere between confusion and hyper-focus. Fortunately the first thing I thought to do was smart – get myself and my bike off the road and then sit my sore behind down.

Even more fortunately, I had teammates to take it from there. But in case you don’t, here’s what they did that I didn’t think to do. First check yourself for injuries. Some might not be obvious at first – I was still finding new bruises and scrapes an hour later, when I stepped into the most painful shower of my life.

Then check your bike. If you have any thought of jumping back on it right away, you need to be 100% sure both you and it are in working order. Some key things to check are your brakes, shifters, and derailleur, as well as the true of the wheels. Most other issues will probably be obvious (ie, the aptly named taco’d rim, or a broken frame), but look over every inch of your bike to check for cracks or any other damage (use the flashlight on your phone to see even better).

Find something wrong? Get help from a qualified mechanic at your Local Bike Shop to make sure it’s safe to ride. If not, you might find yourself spending more quality time with the asphalt.

Getting Back on the Horse Bike

Unless you are seriously injured, or your bike is unrideable, try to get back in the saddle the next day (okay, and, yes, make sure your doctor is cool with it too). This is especially important if it was your first crash. If you can convince an understanding teammate or friend to come with you, do it. It doesn’t have to be a long ride, even a couple miles around the block will do. What’s important is reminding yourself that you love to ride more than you’re afraid of crashing.

Learn from it, but don’t let it prevent you from continuing to get back on the road.

But now that you’ve gotten over the mental barrier, its time to recover physically. Keep that road rash covered and moist for the first couple of days, and nurse whatever other injuries you may have incurred. Eat some ice cream (or whatever your comfort food is). And whether you do it yourself or send it to your local bike shop, get any necessary repairs done on your bike. Take care of yourself, take care of your bike, and get back on the road, because there are only two types of cyclists: those that crash, and those that don’t ride.

The post What I Learned From My First Bike Crash appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Updated: 7-23-16

It was 3 weeks before my first road race when I decided the minimum fitness I had been maintaining wasn’t going to cut it. I had been working out anywhere from 2 to 4 times per week without any semblance of a plan. I needed to come up with a solid, consistent, maintainable schedule that didn’t take up any more time than it absolutely needed to.

It also had to get me in good enough shape to be a top competitor at the intro level. So I did some research and came up with something that worked pretty well, and now I’m going to share it with you.

How to Get into Race Shape in 3 Easy Weeks (OK, They’re Not Actually Easy)

Below, I’ve laid out my weekly routine, but you’ll notice that I haven’t included Saturdays and Sundays here. Much of my plan relied on racing Saturday and Sunday during our six-week racing season. Before those races started, I used Saturday and Sunday for long endurance rides. But my weekday schedule was about the same.

I’ve mapped it out here, but also check out my cool graphic at the bottom of the page.

Weekday Training Schedule

Monday: The designated rest day. It assumed that I had just spent the past two days putting in long miles in the saddle or racing until my legs felt like jelly. It was also the day that I had class from 9am until 5pm and would inevitably come home exhausted thereafter.

Tuesday: Interval day, most often on the trainer. I have found that doing intervals is a lot more effective on the trainer, since you can push harder and maintain better consistency than on the road where traffic and geography get in the way. I would only do about 45 to 60 minutes on the trainer, which included a 5-10min warmup, 35-45min of the actual workout, and 5-20min of warmdown. These intervals were hard and fast – usually under 2 minutes per interval, and on a perceived exertion scale of 1 to 10, they were 7 and up.

Wednesday: A bit of a wild card day. Whenever possible, I would go out for a good, solid ride on the road. I would look to hit a few good climbs, but definitely did not push myself as hard as I would for intervals. On the perceived exertion scale from above, these rides averaged between 5 and 7. I would try for at least an hour and a half on the road; more if I had time and was feeling rested (you don’t get a lot of great sleep as a college student).

Thursday: Another interval day. High-intensity intervals are widely considered the best way to get fit fast, after all. For my trainer interval workouts, I like to use videos with all the workout details already planned out and cues displayed in real time during my session. That way I don’t even have to think – perfect when your brain shuts off for those last few intervals. A search of “cycling trainer workouts” on youtube yields some great results. But if you’re more into doing your own thing, the rule of thumb for intervals is as follows: anything over 4 minutes of work should have one-quarter the work time as rest time (so, for a 4 minute interval, you get 1 minute of rest). Below 4 minutes of work gets a little trickier, and depends on the intensity of work. In general, as the work time gets shorter and harder, the rest time in proportion to the work time should get higher. And eventually the length of the rest time should surpass the work time at around 1 minute of work time.

Friday: An easy day that often became another rest day when traveling for a race. At most, I would spin my legs out for a little while just to get the blood flowing.

Saturday & Sunday: Long endurance rides, or, race day!

In total, I only spent an average of 3-5 hours during the work week actually on my bike. Including the time it takes me to get dressed and prepped for the workout, stretch after the workout, shower, and return to my other activities, the time I spent dedicated to cycling was only about 5-7 hours per work week. During the weekends, when I had the time to spare, I would spend a lot more time on cycling whether it was a race weekend or not. And, just to prove to you that this plan worked, I can tell you I made 4 individual top 5’s across four race weekends – and every weekend I placed higher in both the road races and criteriums than the last.

Cool Graphic

So those are my top tips. What are yours? Be sure to comment below or contact us to let us know what you think!

Disclaimer: Please note that I am not a coach and do not claim to be anything near one – I am merely sharing what I came up with after some research that worked for me. Always consult with your doctor and a qualified coach before embarking on any training regimen.

The post How to Get in Shape for Your First Bike Race appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

How to Recover Your Stolen Bike

Six am marathon starts. There’s nothing quite so horrible as the smell of early morning air and peppy people passing around wishes for a happy day. OK, there is something worse. Hurriedly locking up my beloved road bike (named Blue Moon) to the bike rack before jogging to the starting line.

Thirteen miles of pavement worn into the tread of my shoes, and I was free to pick up Blue Moon back where I left him. A hatchet-like tool lay chipped and muddied in the barren space–soiled leaves clinging to its sharpened edges. My frayed lock discarded and wrapped around the emptiness of the curving metal rack. The runner’s high turned into a strange mix of hallucination and memory. Perhaps I hadn’t locked Blue Moon to this rack?

But no. He was gone.

About a week later, my best friend was pretty positive she saw it being ridden down the main thoroughfare in the afternoon. She asked if I wanted her to chase the rider and tackle him. I turned the thought over in my mind, but, she being 8 months pregnant, I told her, “No.” At least it gave me hope that Blue Moon is now in the hands of a caring if not oblivious cyclist, but that doesn’t totally fill the empty space in my heart that he once occupied.

During my ordeal, I’ve learned a few things about bike thievery and recovery that will hopefully give you a stronger leg up in case your bike ever gets accosted. Try these things, but remember that prevention is really most of the game. And, if you see my Raleigh Cadent, please drop me a line!

Report Your Bike Everywhere

These tips will work best if you have plenty of info about your bike handy. You’ll definitely find it helpful if you have the bike’s serial number (generally found under the bottom bracket), make, model, and accessory specs written somewhere. The more detail you can share, the higher the chance that someone will spot your bike.

Make Some Posters: This is where all those Instagram photos of your bike will come in handy. Use a clear image, offer up as many details as possible, and maybe consider a reward (maybe).

Plaster these posters all over the place. While it sometimes happens that bikes can be sold in another town, they’re often, surprisingly, kept in the local market. Head over to your LBS and ask if they’ll keep an eye out or help you by posting a flyer. They won’t always have space to tape up your flyer, but they most likely will keep an eye on the bikes people bring in.

Otherwise, staple them to high traffic areas, the place where your bike was taken, and anywhere else you can think of.

Register Your Bike: Bike Index is one of the largest registration sites, which also allows for posts about stolen rides. Of course, there are plenty of other sites that also provide a similar service, but we don’t have much experience with them.

Tell the Cops: Most local departments have a specific procedure for reporting your bike stolen. They’ll definitely want your serial number or other identifying proof, but freely offer up any details you have about the bike. But remember, this isn’t an emergency–they really don’t want you calling 911 over your bicycle–no matter how much you feel like it’s a part of the family.

Post Stolen Ads: Make the rounds on Craig’s List, OfferUp, local newspapers, Buy Sell & Trade groups in your area, and any other site you can think of. Spread the word in neighboring cities as well.

Set Up a Google Alert: Possibly one of the best courses of action you can take, set up a Google Alert for your bike’s make and model, and your city. Any time a listing goes up offering a bike like yours, you’ll be notified via email.

Spread the Social Media Word: Post pictures and info on all your social media channels. Your friends in the area might spot your bike, and they’ll likely help repost to their friends as well. Heck, shout us out on social media, and we’ll try to help you too.

Check Yard Sales: Flea markets, yard sales, swap meets–they’re all potential landing spots.

Lastly, try not to lose heart. Often, stolen bikes show up complete and unchanged, and you never know when you might happen across it.

Flanders Bikes is Cool

I’ve got one serious shout-out to give here. Thanks to Flanders Bikes for their extra-mile kindness. They posted flyers, asked others in the community, and were generally all-around super awesome when I visited their shop. If you’re in the SLO area, stop by and check them out–the cycling community needs more people like these.

The post What to Do When Your Bike Gets Stolen appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Are you stoked? You should be. It’s National Bike Month! And, yes, we know it’s actually week 2 of Bike Month, but our enthusiasm hasn’t slowed down much (of course, it might be the extra sugar we’re eating to keep us logging those miles).

So, with the help of PeopleForBikes and Pearl Izumi, we’ve decided to spread our enthusiasm for the best month in the calendar (because, frankly, the cookies we were supposed to share are all gone).

Read on! We’ve got tips for making your rides and commutes safer, gear that we’ve tested and recommend, and more info on joining the National Bike Challenge.

Tips for Safer Riding During National Bike Month

You should definitely stay safe out there, and grabbing some sagacious advice from PeopleForBikes will definitely help. We heartily endorse these tips from PFB to keep you riding as safely as possible every time you hit the road.

1. Follow the Law: You’re pretty much considered a car out there, so make sure that you follow the rules of the road. In other words, ride in the direction of traffic, stay off the sidewalk, obey traffic signals, and stick to the right-most lane that allows you to travel safely to your destination.
2. Be Predictable: Cars want to know where you’re going! Don’t swerve, make sudden movements, or change lanes without looking. Use your arms to signal turns, and try to make eye contact with drivers when you’re planning a turn or other traffic maneuver.
3. Use lights!: Here at SLO Cyclist, we all ride with daytime rear lights. Grab some quality, high lumen (my current tail light runs at 100 lumens in daylight) lights for both front and rear. Use them! Not only will you be more visible to drivers, it’s also the law that your bike is equipped with lights when you’re riding in the dark. And adding hi-viz/reflective gear doesn’t hurt either–check out our recommendations from Pearl Izumi below for visibility gear that also looks cool.
4. Be aware, always: Constantly be scanning for drivers, pedestrians, potential dooring hazards, potholes, drains, and other road hazards. It’s generally a good idea to assume that other users of the road don’t see you–be on the defensive.
5. Carry stuff: Wear your helmet. Yes. Please do. And don’t forget a flat-fixing kit for those days that the roads decide to attack your tires. Finally, always do a quick once-over of your bike before heading out on a ride. Do a brake check, look for any loose parts or cracks, listen for grinding or a noisy drivetrain. If you notice anything out of the ordinary, check out our how-to guides, or head over to your LBS to get a tune-up.

Get Geared Up Right

With the help of Pearl Izumi, we tested a few kits to keep us riding Bike Month in style and comfort. We were somewhat blown away by the comfort and high-tech fabrics–including high-vis elements that match subtlety with safety. We’ve got those reviews coming up for you this week, and we’re pretty stoked. Until then, we’re passing along these ideas for kitting up with Pearl Izumi to help make riding to work, school, or maybe no-place-in-particular more comfortable, convenient, and cool.

1. Be seen and protected! The SELECT WxB Jacket offered in BioViz color ways, keeps you seen in lowlight and dark conditions and dry in rainy weather. 
2. Packable pull over for fickle weather. The SELECT Barrier Pant keeps you dry and are small enough to easily pack just in case the weather is unpredictable when you head out. 
3. Easy to walk in shoes from the trails to the coffee shop. The X-Alp Seek VII Shoes keep you from clunking around on giant cleats, and offer SPD compatibility.
4. Keeping warm for those brisk morning rides. The SELECT Soft-shell Lite Glove are rated for sub 40-degree temps, and should keep your fingers from going numb on chilly rides.
5. Comfort! Liner Shorts work well underneath pants or other clothes for a padded layer during your commute to work.

Join The Challenge

The PeopleForBikes National Bike Challenge gives us all a place to feel cool. Log miles and compete with other riders across the nation through the official website, and encourage your friends to get out and ride.  It’s totes free, and you can compete with riders locally, state-wide, and nationally. Ultimately, the Challenge aims to get 100,000 riders to pedal 75 million miles from May 1, 2016 until September 30, 2016. We can do this.

By the way, this week also happens to be the official National Protected Bike Lane Week (May 9 – 13). Get in on the challenge, and support advocacy for safer routes for all cyclists!

Want to get in on this?

1. Log on to nationalbikechallenge.org (starting May 1)

2. Click the red Join the National Bike Challenge button

3. Fill in all information on the form and click Join the National Bike Challenge at the bottom

4. Once you are logged in, click Manage Groups on the left hand navigation bar 

5. You can Find or Create a team, workplace, or school from here

 

Keep us in the loop on how your bike month is going, and be sure to let us know if you’ve got questions about commuting safer, or maybe just ways to beat your best friend at cycling. Happy riding!

The post Commuting Tips & Gear Recommendations for a Safe Bike Month appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.