As someone who has done their fair share of annoyingly long rides, I often get asked “What’s the key to being on your bike for so long?” While I don’t have all of the answers, here are some key tips that I swear by. Whether you’re getting ready for your first 20+ mile ride or gearing up for your first century, I highly recommend trying the strategies listed below.

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Tip #1. EAT

Fueling is crucial, especially on rides over an hour or two. Forget the complex formulas; keep it simple: have a carb-rich snack every 45-60 minutes. If you struggle with solid food, try liquid calories from drink mixes. The best snacks are the ones you enjoy and want to eat.

Tip #2: Ride at a Comfortable Pace

Unless you’re a pro or just a plain masochist, don’t try to go full speed on long rides. Instead, ride in the magical Zone Two, the sweet spot for aerobic and endurance gains. If you can chat while riding, you’re probably in the right zone. Heavy breathing? You’re going too hard.

Tip #3: Ride a Bike that Fits Well

Comfort is crucial. Joint pain or discomfort on long rides usually means your bike fit is off. A proper bike fit helps you ride more efficiently and comfortably. Professional fits can be pricey but are worth it to ride pain-free. However!! Remember that you know your body best, so if a certain measurement/ fit feels right for you, go with it even if the bike fitter says otherwise.

For those of you opting for the longer version (proud of you), let’s dive in.

Tip #1. EAT

People tend not to realize how important fueling is on the bike, especially on rides over an hour or two. While the internet can go into immense detail and offer formulas to calculate exactly how much you should be eating, I like to keep it simple and go by this simple rule for training rides: Have a carbohydrate-rich snack every 45min-60min. Rule of thumb: it’s far easier to eat too little during a ride than too much, so if you want a snack sooner than 45-60 min, have one!

What should you eat on the bike? Well, there are so many options!! There are a ton of options designed specifically for exercise such as GU gels, Honey Stinger waffles, Bonk Breakers energy bars, and more. These are great for races and when you want the most optimal cycling nutrition. However, they are more expensive than non cycling-specific alternatives. If you’re a broke college student like me or not wanting to spend as much money for training ride fuel, there are plenty of more budget friendly alternatives that do the trick. Some of my go-to favorites are fruit snacks, gummy bears, cookies, or GoGo Squeeze apple sauce pouches.

Some people struggle to get down calories during rides (I’m this way in races, it sucks), so if you fall in that boat, liquid calories from drink mixes are a great way to get the fuel you need during long rides. They also offer important electrolytes and other good stuff, so drink mix is really just good all around even if you have no problem getting down nutrition during rides. Fluid is a local company with great hydration options. Their cinnamon-vanilla recovery mix is also TO DIE FOR. Personally, my go-to race hydration mix is GU Roctane Summit Tea drink mix. It is high in calories, packed with good stuff, and has a very mellow and yummy flavor that my sensitive stomach and get down.

Tip #2: Ride at a comfortable pace

Unless you’re a pro rider, attempting a multi-hour ride at top speed most likely won’t go well. The key to riding for a long time is riding at a sustainable pace. There’s this magical thing called Zone Two, which is the optimal zone (a specific range of heart rate or power outputs that correspond to different levels of exercise intensity) for aerobic and endurance gains. If you’re riding in zone two, you should be able to maintain a conversation. If you’re breathing heavily, there’s a 99.9% chance that you are riding too hard. Zone two is the key for enjoyable and beneficial long rides.

Additional Zone Two Info

For the number geeks: If you train off heart rate data, zone one two means riding between 60 to 70 percent of your maximum heart rate. For example, if I had a max heart rate of 200 bpm, zone two for me would mean riding between 120 and 140 bpm. If you train off power meter data, you probably already know what zone two means, but here’s a link just in case. Ps. if you’re reading this and have no clue what I’m talking about, don’t sweat it… pls. Often times, the best way to enjoy things is to keep it simple.

Tip #3. Ride a bike that fits well.

Comfort is key, and joint pain/discomfort on long rides is most likely due to an improper bike fit. In addition tp helping you ride more efficiently, a properly fitted bike will help make your body comfortable and mind happy. Bike fits do cost a bit of money, but they are crucial to anyone having discomfort on the bike (discomfort meaning pain in your back, knees, arms, neck, etc). Finding a good and affordable place to get a bike fit can be tricky, but we’re in luck because Humberto at Art’s Cyclery gives great and affordable bike fits.

Rule of thumb #3: Bike fitters are incredibly knowledgeable, however, you will always be the most knowledgeable about your body and how it feels. If a certain measurement or fit feels right for you, go with it even if the bike fit says otherwise.

These tips have helped me conquer many long rides, and I hope they work for you too. Happy cycling!

The post Key Tips for Riding Further on the Bike appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Have you been missing the most honest, practical, entertaining, and occasionally funny cycling content in San Luis Obispo? Well, good news! It’s back.

Why should you listen to me?? Well… quite honestly I can’t give any great reasons, but I’ve learned a lot throughout multiple years of riding/racing and have experienced how great (and occasionally not great) the cycling community can be. From important lessons I’ve learned on and off the bike to gear reviews and things I wish I knew when I first started riding, I can promise to share my honest, raw, and unfiltered thoughts on whatever you’d like to hear about.

The post We’re Back! Official 2024 Debut appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Come on, you know you hate it. Staying indoors for a few monotonous hours pedaling without much aim. Everything hurts, and you start to wonder what you liked so much about bikes in the first place.

I was where you are once. But not now. Now, I’m a convert. I actually look forward to my rides on the good old bike trainer. I get stoked thinking about them, and I’m here to pass on a little wisdom that took me from hater to greater.

5 ACCESSORIES, APPS, AND TIPS THAT WILL MAKE YOU STOP HATING INDOOR TRAINER RIDES

In this list, I’ve included all my favorite gear recommendations, indoor training apps, bike setup tips, and even a few words of encouragement to make you feel great about locking your road bike into the arms of your trainer.

1. TRAINING APPS 

So you’re on the bike just aimlessly pedaling, right? NOOOO. The most important part of making your indoor training sessions bearable is by setting yourself up for a goal. I’ve tested all the most popular apps and I have to say one of them beats all the rest for me in terms of serious gains in riding form and keeping me engaged.

The Sufferfest.

If you haven’t tried The Sufferfest, you’re missing out on all the action and accomplishment of being a Sufferlandrian. The full program is only $10 per month with full access to all of their training videos, dozens of training plan, yoga for cyclists, and even mental toughness builder. Personally, I find this the best $10 I spend per month (and, no, they didn’t pay me or give me free Sufferfesting to say this).

Their new 4-Dimensional Power (4DP) is their somewhat revolutionary way to find your abilities on the bike, and you can tailor your training to meet the weaknesses found in your 4DP test. Of course, you can also go by the standard FTP.

The app also has ERG mode to control my smart trainer, so I know I’ll always be in the right power and cadence range. And the pro racing videos laced with motivational name-calling is pretty much the best thing ever.

WHY DIDN’T YOU CHOOSE ZWIFT?

Of course, Zwift is fun and somewhat interesting when you’re virtual racing, but these simulators just don’t hold my interest for long–plus the displayed metrics I find to be just off enough to make me feel ultra slow in the simulator. What a downer.

That having been said, the one great thing about the BKOOL Sim is the ability to add my own routes to it. This comes in really handy when I have an out-of-town race coming up, and I want to practice on the exact route.

Overall, I use the Sufferfest to keep my fitness on point, and I switch it up with the occasional Zwift or BKOOL Simulator ride just to keep things interesting. So, yes, I do like simulators, but they don’t keep me coming back. The Sufferfest is my motivation.

Check out The Sufferfest App at their official website.

2. THE RIGHT SETUP & SURROUNDINGS

There’s something about a trainer without proper tweaking that will make your regularly comfortable road riding position feel just terribly awful. Almost as awful as that sentence, if you don’t set things up right, your hour on the trainer will feel like a real-life torture session.

First, make sure that your bike is truly level. A riser block like this one should help with this, but you can also go the low-tech way of using all those phone books that mysteriously keep showing up on your doorstep even though it’s 2018. Make sure your bike’s not leaning forward or backward, or the saddle tilt will put pressure in all the wrong places.

BE MINDFUL OF POSITION

Of course, you should also wear a decent set of bib shorts like these, and make sure that you’re periodically standing and giving your undercarriage a rest.

In fact, try to change position fairly often. I like to hit the drops on sprints and sit up on some climbs. Vary your muscles, and concentrate on building your pedal stroke–concentrating on your power outputs will show how you can gain wattage in your pedal stroke based on how you’re using your muscles. There’s nothing like being in a controlled environment to really understand some of your more nuanced strengths and weaknesses.

STAY COOL, STAY HYDRATED

Be sure to drink fluids while you’re on the trainer. You should also make sure that you’re properly fueled before/during a session. But don’t make the mistake of downing a whole pizza and 4 breadsticks 30 minutes before–the trainer will make you regret any poor nutrition decisions.

I usually treat a trainer session like a short outdoor ride–drinks only. But be sure to take on nutrition if you need it, and especially during a 2-hour or longer session (I don’t do a lot of these. I save most of my long rides for outdoors, if possible).

Don’t forget the fan (or two) on a high enough setting to really cool you down. Plus a towel or sweat catcher to stop all that frame-wrecking from destroying your headset. Here’s another option for under $10 that a friend of mine really likes. I generally keep a towel around my shoulders and another one over the front of my bike.

3. A SMART TRAINER

There’s nothing that kills a great indoor ride like noise, instability, and having to unclip and climb off to adjust the wheel tension. If you’re going to spend money anywhere, invest in a great smart trainer. There are tons of options on the market, but getting one that automatically adjusts tension and has a built in power meter makes a huge difference in your training.

I’ve tried my fair share of trainers, and I’ve settled on the BKOOL Smart Pro 2 (MSRP $589) as one of my favorites.

Not only is it crazy quiet, it also simulates up to 20% gradient and has a built in power meter that runs up to 1200 watts. It’s fully compatible with trainer apps like The Sufferfest, Zwift, and BKOOL’s own Simulator, which you get a year of for free when you purchase the Smart Pro 2.

It’s easy to set up with Bluetooth and ANT+ compatibility, and has a fool-proof bike to trainer interface. The internal unit is fully enclosed, and the gradient simulations are quite lifelike. Meaning, as you ride on a simulated road with your app (or on a trainer session with changing intensity), the Smart Pro 2 will automatically adjust the tension while it displays your watts to keep you training at a high level.

It’s one of the best units I’ve tried for quiet, wattage accuracy, and fool-proof connectivity. In fact, I’ve got a full, long-term review of it on deck that explains what makes the BKOOL a notch above. Stay tuned.

Availability: BKOOL | Amazon | Wiggle |

4. A COMPUTER/TABLET STAND

Whether you’re training via an app or just want to answer some work emails while you’re hammering out the watts, a sturdy stand or desktop is a must. I personally use a heavy duty music stand set somewhat flat to hold my laptop. I’ve had friends who have recommended this laptop stand as a great option as well.

You probably know this already, but you likely won’t last long on the trainer if you don’t have something to take your mind off the fact that you’re not going anywhere. Using the apps I mentioned above will give you a sense of accomplishment and motivation. So make sure you’ve got your laptop or tablet securely placed within reach.

Most recently, I have been using my Apple TV to display my apps up on the giant TV. Nothing like staying motivated with your 55″ big screen making you feel like you’re right in the action. It’s the little things in life, amiright?

5. EXTRA TIME & FAST RESULTS

A great indoor training plan will get you faster, fast. Why? No junk miles. In essence, your trainer miles can be higher quality because you don’t coast and you can focus on hitting exact metrics at exact times in your workout.

Of course, I’m not knocking the outdoors as a fantastic way to get in shape (and a lot of fun too), but indoor rides can boost your fitness in less time overall. Some say a 60 minute ride on a trainer is equal to a 90 minute ride outdoors. This is a huge plus for those of us who are juggling jobs, family, other commitments, and fitness. We can schedule a shorter ride and still get the same boost.

Beyond that, you are also able to practice more mental toughness on the trainer, and you’ll understand how long you need to ride before you’re fully warmed up–key to a strong racing performance out on the road.

If you’re following a structured training plan like the ones I mentioned in The Sufferfest, you’ll find your confidence building and your form improving in a short amount of time.

The post 5 ACCESSORIES, APPS, AND TIPS THAT WILL MAKE YOU STOP HATING INDOOR TRAINER RIDES appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

I remember my first real rookie cycling mistake. I had just bought a Schwinn road bike at Salvation Army, and my mom gave me a little cash for my birthday. I spent hours looking up cycling gear on eBay, and was determined to get all set up to ride like a real cyclist with a limited amount of money.

I assumed I would need sweet cycling shoes–but what I did not understand all those years ago was that I couldn’t just hit the road as is–on old standard strap pedals. I slipped and slid along the surface of the flat pedals in my brand new pair of hard-soled Diadora’s (cue excessive pointing and laughing).

At one point, I nearly crashed when my foot slipped straight to the ground as I stood out of the saddle. I got off the bike wondering how the heck people were supposed to go faster in those stupid shoes–only later did I realize that I needed special clipless pedals and cleats to go along with my fancy Diadora’s.

Today, it’s still pretty dang hilarious. Embarrassing, but hilarious.

A story like that isn’t in your future because you’re learning from my mistakes. Here’s a list of gear and tools that every cyclist needs to get started without wasting time, money, or dignity.

8 PIECES OF GEAR EVERY BEGINNER CYCLIST NEEDS

A DECENT KIT

A good cycling kit (jersey and shorts) is essential to keeping you feeling good on the bike. If you cheap out on all the other things, try not to cheap out here. High quality bib shorts, especially, will help you to stay comfortable on the bike.

The Castelli Free Aero Race bib shorts and Velocissimo jersey shown to the left cost a bit more, but we’ve tested them out, and both the men’s and women’s versions are comfortable and high quality. Plus, the color of the bibs are neutral enough to go with various jersey colors while still making you look like you know what you’re doing.

Oh, and, yes, you’ll want bib shorts. These are like magic to make muffin-top non-existent, and the sleek feel is proven to make you more awesome. If you’re not digging the Castelli kit above, check out Voler’s collection of kits. I highly recommend the Caliber and Black Label collections.

But if you’re wanting to spend a little less on a kit that’s still pretty darn good, check out the Jet collection. Voler also offers a really cool Voler Bucks promotion that gives you a free $10 to spend.

HELMET

Keep yourself safe. Protect your head! But don’t get talked into buying a $250, carbon reinforced, spiffy team-colored, feather-light helmet. These helmets, while cool, are really just about cutting weight for riders who want the advantage, and they don’t necessarily offer any greater protection than a cheaper version.

But you should be on the lookout for a few specific options in a helmet:

• Don’t bother with a visor–if a helmet comes with it, just make sure it’s removable, and pull it off before you ride with it–easily solved. These visors are meant for mountain bike riders, and on the road it’ll just basically become a wind-catcher. Plus, the coolness factor goes down. 
• Don’t buy a used helmet, or one that’s older than three years–this includes that one your Dad left in the garage in 1982. As far as used helmets, you’re never sure that it hasn’t been damaged. After three years, according to manufacturers, the foam breaks down and is not as effective.
• Go to your local shop, try a few helmets on, get a color you really like, and make sure you think it looks good on you. If you like it, you’ll be more likely to wear it.
• Know that head shape makes a difference! Giro, for example, fits a more oval-shaped head while Specialized or Lazer fit rounder shapes. Try them on, ratchet and buckle them down, and make sure they’re comfortable on your particular head.
• Go for something in the $30-$75 range. The Kali Chakra Plus, for instance, is a versatile helmet that keeps mushroom head at bay for just over $50. In fact, a look through the $25-75 helmet range at Jenson USA shows off plenty of inexpensive yet good-looking options.

GLOVES

Avoid gloves and you’ll likely find out after a long ride that your hands are suffering from the road vibration. Or take a tumble, and you’ll be grateful your gloves took the beating and not your delicate palms. It’s best to go to a bike shop and try a few pair on–or catch Voler’s bargain bin for some cheap ones to try out.

You should be able to find a good pair in the $10-20 range that will fit well and work well.

Personal preference really comes into play here, so it’s up to you to find ones you like and that fit well. Do remember that most gloves will stretch a little, but you don’t want them so tight that they cut off your circulation. I ride Castelli Secondapelle RC Glove because they’re minimal, super comfy, and they look awesome with any kit. But they’re a bit on the expensive side.

ROAD ID

Perhaps the next most important piece of safety equipment you should never ride without (besides a helmet is a RoadID. I have the Wrist Elite version, and it’s almost become a fashion statement with me. Choose a color, type, and tag line for an extremely personalized identification system.

In the event that you have a crash (hopefully you won’t, but it’s best to be prepared), your RoadID will offer fellow cyclists, who probably don’t know your contacts list, or emergency personnel with allergy information, blood type, important phone numbers, and more. If you’re unconscious, have a concussion, or worse, your RoadID could save your life. I, for instance, have a serious penicillin allergy–carrying that info on my wrist could be vitally important.

Get a RoadID. Especially if you ride alone or with groups who don’t know your family well. They’re relatively cheap, and sort of seriously awesome.

FLAT REPAIR

You can’t get around it, you’ll eventually get a flat out on the road. And you’ll need a repair kit that includes an extra tube, patch kit, tire levers, and pump. Lezyne, a company that’s local for us here and makes serious quality gear, has a repair kit with pretty much everything to get you started.

The Lezyne M-Caddy C02 Repair Kit come complete with pump, multi-tool (which you’ll definitely need), tire levers, saddlebag, and glueless patches (these are a little tricky to use, but we’ve got an article for that).

YOU HAVE CHOICES

Kits like the one above basically have everything to get you started, but you might find that you’d rather make your own choices or spend a little less. You can pick from all sorts of saddlebags–or if you fall on the “I’m too cool for saddlebags” side of the debate, you might opt for a tool wrap. Tool wraps fit in a jersey pocket or on saddle rails, your choice.

One word of advice: if you to decide to ride with a saddlebag, make sure that it’s snugged up tight to your saddle, and it’s not too big. You don’t want to take your whole house with you on every ride. You’ll only need enough space for a flat fixing and maybe a little cash/ID.

PUMPS . . . MORE CHOICES

As for pumps, while I prefer the portability and ease of the C02 pumps, they do have a few downsides–you’re limiting the amount of air you have, and they can be slightly tricky–though they fill your tire super fast and with ease.

Mini-pumps, on the other hand, are a little easier to deal with at times despite adding some bulk to your bike. If you go for a mini-pump, make sure you get a type with a flexible hose, like the Lezyne Alloy Drive Hand Pump, otherwise you’ll have to be careful not to bend the stem of the tube as you fill it with air.

In addition to a portable one, you’ll also need a floor pump to check and fill your tires before each ride–otherwise you’ll be trying to keep your tires inflated to the proper psi with a mini-pump and a lot of extra cardio.

No matter what, make sure the pump works with Presta valves (the skinny kind). And since this is something you’ll use often, it’s not a bad idea to spend a bit more on a high quality floor pump that should last you for several years. Again, I’d go with Lezyne’s Sport Floor Drive if it were my choice.

WATER BOTTLES AND CAGES

Unless the shop that sells you your bike is kinda lame, you should get a free pair of bottle cages with your bike. But if you don’t, first make sure that whatever bike you buy has pre-installed screws for two cages (one on the seat tube, and one on the down tube e.g. the vertical bar and the lower sloping bar of the main frame).

Assuming it does, get two simple, metal bottle cages. Don’t worry about fancy, carbon cages yet. If you want to spend a little extra, you can get some cages that will grow with your bike and ability, but only if you feel like spending $36 or so on a pair of them. Either of the following will be great on your sweet road bike:

As for bottles, get two (or several because you’ll be using them a lot) matching ones from your local shop like these Camelbak Podium ones.

While we’re on the subject, don’t bother buying a hydration pack. This is something I did as a newbie, and while it seems like a good idea at the time, you’ll really just find that it’s annoying to carry a pack while you’re riding–you can’t get to your pockets, and it’s kind of uncool in road riding (but then, who needs to be cool, right? Well, I do. Desperately.).

MULTI-TOOL

Every cyclist (yes, every cyclist) needs to carry a multi-tool with them. These are perfect for adjusting your saddle on the fly, or making sure your brakes are working just right. I carry a very simple V5-tool with, you guessed right, 5 allen keys on it. It’s super small, so it doesn’t take up much room in a pocket or saddle bag.

It’s really your call on how many features you want to carry around with you–because remember, they can get heavy. But as a beginner, it will probably be nice to have a decent set that will let you adjust several things on your bike as needed. Here’s a link to several over at Jenson USA that should give you an idea on your options.

A COMPUTER

You won’t get too far on your bike before you’ll find yourself wanting to know how awesome you are at it. You’ll want to know your speed, distance traveled, calories burned, heart rate, power outp…well eventually you probably will. But for now, you have a choice.

You can splurge a bit and go for a nice computer that will grow with you as a cyclist and aid in your training, or you can get an inexpensive computer that will tell you all the basics like speed and distance.

I personally use a Wahoo ELEMNT, and I love it. It has tons of features, plus you can upload your ride or track all your coolness on social media–wirelessly. But it’s rather a steep price at over $300.

The good news is that really high functioning GPS computers are a heck of a lot cheaper these days than they used to be. Lezyne (I know I keep throwing their name around), for instance has a range of computers that top out at $150 with features like text alerts, maps, power meter connectivity and more. Bryton is also helping to bring prices down with their $100 or so range computers.

If you have the extra cash, you’ll certainly use a nice computer for several years. If you’re just out for a get-by version, that’s fine too. And used is always an option. Whatever you do, though, at least get one with cadence. Trust me.

3 THINGS YOU DON’T NEED YET

FANCY SADDLE

Although a well-fitting saddle is crucial to keeping you on the bike, the seat that comes with your bike will probably do just fine in the beginning. You’ll eventually want to swap it out, but you’ll probably also want to spend a decent amount of time getting one that fits you just right. Don’t fork over any extra money for now–wait till you know exactly what you want. 

When you’re ready to get a new saddle, check out our Ultimate Guide to Finding a Comfortable Saddle. It’ll make sure you find the right shape for you.

SHOES AND CLIPLESS PEDALS

Although you’ll eventually want to go clipless (the pedals that your shoes clip in to) because it offers a great deal more power transfer, you can start out just fine with sneakers and strap pedals. Once you get more comfortable on the bike, shoes and pedals will probably be your next purchase.

LOADS AND LOADS OF GEAR

Cycling can be an expensive sport–especially if you waste money on things you think you’ll use, but end up disliking. If you stick to the list above, you’ll get yourself started in style, and it should take you a long way (pun intended).

Get informed before you buy something, and make sure it’s something you really need. Make friends at your LBS (heck, they’ll sometimes offer discounts for good customers), ask us questions, read our articles, and DON’T BE AFRAID! We were all newbies once–painfully so in my case.

THE WRAP-UP

OK, that’s my advice. The real key here is to spend your money wisely on things that you know you’ll use for a while. Buy used whenever you want to (our “budget cycling” section has got your back), look for discount codes and coupons, but don’t be afraid to spend a little more for a good quality piece of kit that you know you’ll end up loving.

The post The Gear Every Beginner Cyclist Should Buy (And 3 Things You Shouldn’t) appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

You know the numbing pain. The toe-crushing discomfort of ill-fitting cycling shoes. Pinky toes screaming at you to stop your training ride and immediately build a bonfire to destroy those kicks once and for all.

You are not alone. I also feel your struggle. I also have buckled under the horror of tight cycling shoes. I also have cursed my 3E feet for refusing to conform to “normal” spaces. But I have found answers.

Here are the brands you should consider when your foot measures, “wide.”

A FEW PRE-SHOE TIPS

Yes, you’re on the right track toward a pair of shoes that will finally offer you relief and comfort no matter how long you’re riding. But you might also consider a few of these tips for making sure that you’re optimizing your fit.

• Consider Thin Socks: This isn’t to say that you should choose a pair of shoes based on the thickness of your sock, but sometimes avoiding unnecessarily bulky socks will make sure your feet have the space they need in those wide shoes. Socks like the Castelli Corso 13 or Swiftwick Aspire are great starting points to consider (assuming it’s not crazy cold outside).
• Get The Right Length: Although it’s tempting to just buy a size bigger for extra wiggle room (I know the draw of those 80% off sizes), try to resist. Not only will the extra length look a little funny, but it will also cause your heels to slip, set your cleat too far forward, and keep you from putting all your power into your pedal stroke.
• Make Sure You’re Fit Properly: Before you lighten your wallet on a new pair of cycling shoes, make sure that your pain isn’t actually being caused by improper bike fit. Head to your LBS to get a proper fit done, but, barring that, consider Bike Fit’s great article on bike shoe pain.

BONT RIOT+ AND VAYPOR SHOES

Bont Cycling has always been at the forefront of the market, and their perfect fit via heat-molding shoes are a staple for the wide width crowd. With a range that starts at a pretty budget friendly price of $179 MSRP (currently going for just over $140 on Wiggle) and goes up to $399 for the Vaypor S.

Model Tested: Riot+ in Crimson

Price: $179 MSRP

Sizes Available: EU 36-50

Models Recommended: Riot+, Vaypor+ (Wide), Vaypor S (Wide)

Where To Buy: Bont shoes tend to be a little more difficult to find, but you should try your LBS first. Online, check out Wiggle or Amazon.com for good deals on the widest selection.

Always remember, however, if you buy through Amazon, make sure you’re buying from a reputable seller–counterfeits are out there. We’ve had success with sellers like Bike Bug or 365 Cycles.

FIT, FEATURES, NOTES

I gave the Riot+ the full trial, but also had a chance to feel the fit of Bont’s Vaypor S and Vaypor+ in wide widths. All three shoes offer a very roomy toe box that offers a more natural foot shape. But the wide-width Vaypor line definitely allows for more space.

While the Riot+ does not technically come in a wide width option, the standard size is much wider than other cycling shoes, and as such offered enough space for me without creating hot spots.

A little different than your average cycling shoe, Bont likes to give your feet room to breathe with a shoe that has a more natural toe-box and a heat moldable sole. This means you literally put these shoes in your oven, take them out and fit them to your own foot. For reals.

HEAT MOLDING CUSTOMIZES YOUR FIT

The option to heat mold the shoes also allows you to get a little (not a ton, but some) extra space in the forefoot. I used the handle of a screwdriver to gently push out the sides of both shoes, and this helped even more. Plus, it’s tough to beat the exact fit of arch and heel support that this shaping method provides. Seriously perfect.

Of course, you may need to repeat the heat molding process once or twice to get them to feel spot-on. On my second round with the oven, these Riots became some of the most comfortable cycling shoes I’d ever tried on.

COLOR AND SIZE

The colors here, except for the black on black versions, are bright. Personally, I’m a fan of the bright statement and criss-crossed graphics. But the Crimson is a little of a misnomer here as these are closer to an orange rather than a deep red. Fans of a more subtle shoe should go with the khaki or black colorways.

As for fit, you’ll definitely want to try these on or check out the sizing wizard on Bont’s website for picking up a pair for yourself. I was sized up two full numbers for the right fit–they generally fit a little shorter than other cycling shoes.

More Info/Purchase: Bont Cycling | Wiggle | Amazon

Read More In Our Full Review of Bont’s Riot Here

SHIMANO RC9 S-PHYRE & RC7 SHOES

If I had one way to describe Shimano’s S-Phyre shoes, it would be like slipping on a pair of pillows and riding around. Except, those pillows also have incredible stiffness, power transfer, and a totally slip-free fit.

OK, I know my comparison is lame. But these shoes really do live up to all the hype you’ve heard, and they’re a great option for those of us with wider needs. Shimano’s standard sizes actually accommodate a wide foot, but their wide-width builds are incredibly roomy. The good news here for budget-conscious riders is that both the RC9 S-Phyres (shown above) and the less expensive RC7 models come in wide-width options.

Like the above Bonts, I also had the chance to slip into a pair of RC7’s, and found them to be quite comfortable and roomy. A great option if you’re just not feeling dropping the $400 or so on a pair of sweet RC9’s (though, yes, they are amazing).

Model Tested: RC9 S-Phyre

Price: $400 MSRP

Sizes Available: EU 36-50

Colors: Blue, White, Yellow, Black (limited availability)

Models Recommended: RC7 Wide, RC9 Wide

Where To Buy: RC7 Wide: Shimano’s Site | Chain Reaction Cycles | ProBikeKit | Amazon | Competitive Cyclist

RC-9: Shimano’s Site | Chain Reaction Cycles | Art’s Cyclery

Make double sure that you order the Wide fit as some retailers have mixed the regular and wide widths together. A chat or email to them will make sure you’re getting what you need. Often, if they don’t have the correct one, they can order them for you.

FIT, FEATURES, NOTES

Shimano’s S-Phyre shoes are full of high-tech features that set them apart–and as the top-of-the-line shoe, that’s to be expected. The upper is made of a supple, stretch-resistant and highly breathable Teijin Avail microfiber synthetic leather. Which amounts to soft and comfortable. The double Boa closures allow for evenly distributed pressure and exact firmness when you really want all your effort to show in your wattage. Of course, these Boa dials have 3 functions: tighten, loosen, fully open.

If you’re worried about heel slippage, the cat’s tongue, silvery material at the heel helps to keep your foot in place. This did seem to keep my foot in a little more snugly, and I never had any problem with slipping at all.

If, for some reason, you’re throwing unwritten rules to the wind and wearing no-show socks, you will likely find this feature somewhat uncomfortable. But, moot point, right? Also, Shimano has created the perfect sock to go with the S-Phyre shoes. Which is tall–just like the Velominatti dictated.

HOW WELL DOES IT FIT?

In all honesty, I have never owned a more comfortable cycling shoe. The width is perfect for my triple-E foot, a numbness/hot spots are non-existent. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised by the ability to wiggle my toes even with the laces cranked down. Sweet.

The fit seems very true to size. Support is also fairly customizable with arch support inserts that allow you to adjust the feel of the insole to best fit your foot. These affix via a couple of velcro strips in the arch.

The upper already has that “broken in” feeling with a slight amount of give when you wiggle your toes, but not enough to affect power when you’re really kicking.

More Info/Purchase: Shimano’s Site | Chain Reaction Cycles | Art’s Cyclery

Read More In Our Full Review of Shimano’s RC9 S-Phyre Here

LAKE CX 237 ROAD SHOES

If there is company really known for their fit, it’s Lake. With a huge variety of lasts that offer a fit for just about any foot and use, wide-widthers have reason to finally rejoice over their choices. Rounding out the list of the best cycling shoes for wide feet is the CX 237.

Model Tested: CX 237 Wide

Price: $299 MSRP

Sizes Available: EU 39-50

Colors: Blue (closer to a teal), White, Black, Brown

Models Recommended: CX 237 Wide

Where To Buy: Lake’s Website | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon |

FIT, FEATURES, NOTES

With a metatarsal button on the insole and ventilation holes at the forefoot, the CX/TX Competition Last allows for 15mm of extra volume/width at the ball of your foot. In fact, of all the shoes on this list, the Lake just feels like its the roomiest.

Single direction, double ratcheting boa dials allow for even pressure and a secure fit. Extremely well made and built to last you for years, the CX 237 is a shoe that stays solid on long road rides, and is certainly well suited to racing.

Super stiff carbon soles respond well to hard pulls, and the power transfer seems spot-on. Wider even in their standard fit, the Lake CX 237 is extremely roomy in a wide width. All day comfort, crazy cozy, and an enemy of toe-squeezing. The real leather upper is supple and soft and tends to conform to your foot for exceptional comfort. After several miles, it breaks in quite nicely.

A FEW NOTES

If you wear Speedplay pedals, which happen to be my personal faves, you may have a little trouble getting the cleat to sit far back enough on the sole. Since it’s a 3-hole shoe, you’ll have to use the adapter (a common thing), but it may not allow you to slide it far enough back, depending on your bike fit.

Although I don’t recommend you try this at home, I took a drill to the plates in order to avoid having to use a crazy heavy steel plate extender. This allowed me to get the cleats to where I needed them, but only just. So please, do not drill anything or modify any of your cleats/plates/shoes as it will likely void your warranty and you may be unsafe. But do know that some sizes will not allow you to get Speedplay cleats far enough back.

Finally, my only other wish with the 237 is that it does not have multi-directional Boa dials. While you can get micro-adjustments in tightening them, you can’t loosen them a fraction without popping open the dial and resetting the tension all together.

A small thing, but on a shoe at this price point it’s something I would like to see. Of course, Lake has more expensive offerings that do feature the push/pull Boas.

HOW WELL DOES IT FIT?

Apart from those small notes, the Lake CX 237 is a fantastic fitting and beautiful shoe. My go-to shoe if I’m due for a long day in the saddle. It may fit a little on the short side, so you might consider sizing up. Check out Lake’s sizing chart to make sure you’re getting the exact shoe you need. I ended up being fitted up a half size from my usual, so you should definitely see about trying them on before ordering a pair.

More Info/Purchase: Lake’s Website | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon

UPDATE!

Lake has recently released their new Extra Wide CX 301 and CX 332 shoes, which they claim is equivalent to a EEE width. I haven’t yet had the chance to try these widths, but since the Lake’s wide shoes are roomier than any other shoe I’ve tried, the Extra Wides adds the extra bit of volume. More info on the extra wides at Lake’s website.

The post The Best Cycling Shoes for Wide Feet – And Where You Can Find Them appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

I suppose “warming up” for a cyclocross race is an oxymoron huh? Oxymoron it may be, but it is important if you want to get the most out of your racing ability. Now, I’m not going to throw a bunch of statistics and research at you. I am of the firm belief that warming up is personal, and that each of us has to figure out what works the best.

HOW TO WARM UP FOR A CYCLOCROSS RACE

Now, I’ve seen guys jump out of their car, unload their bike, pin up and then lap the field. I’ve also seen guys drag their trainer to a local race and have me beat them. And I’ve seen everything in between.

YOUR WARMUP REALLY STARTS THE WEEK BEFORE

Many of you probably think of warm up as the time right before your race. Think a little harder because a good warm up starts with your week leading up to the race. For me, I always have to consider how hard I’m going to train during the week leading up to the weekend race. Planning out your training is of ultimate importance so your legs are fresh for the race.

If you have hammered it all week long, take the day before the race and rest. Nothing worse than feeling fresh from a good training week and your legs not cooperating when the whistle blows for the start. If it has been a light or medium week of training then  just spin a bit the day before the race so your legs can stay loose.

A program that several of our SLO Cyclist writers use, The Sufferfest, which includes a boatload of training videos and training plans in a $9.99 per month subscription. They’ve designed a 7-Day Peak workout plan that allows you to get your legs ready for a big race on the weekend. We don’t get a kickback on recommending it or anything–we just use it and like it.

STAY HYDRATED: NO MATTER THE WEATHER

Living in Missouri, we can have all four seasons in one day let alone over the course of a CX season, and this can definitely impact how and how long I warm up for any given race. I know some of you reading this won’t have the same range of climate to consider, which makes your job easier.

I know as the temps start to drop many of you probably think less and less about hydration. Hydration is still key even when its cold enough to freeze your bottle, and toes, on a long ride. Just because you aren’t sweating as much doesn’t mean you aren’t using up those lovely electrolytes.

Keep yourself hydrated through the week while training, waiting until race day is far too late to do you any good. Remember, hydration for an event becomes very important up to 48 hours previous to the event. Again, you have to know you and learn what to drink, how to drink it and when to drink it.

I know for me, since I have sensitive intestines, I have had to go old school and drink honey water with a pinch of salt added to it or, like I wrote about last year, Pickle Juice Sport works awesome for me.

WARMING UP AT THE RACE

Now that we have covered the week leading up to the event lets talk about race day warm up. I was a sprinter on my high school track team. That experience is good for cyclocross because let’s face it, CX is the sprints of the racing world away from the track.

I usually get to an event roughly an hour before my race time, some days I get there earlier depending on how I am feeling. You’ll have to play with how much time you need to invest in actually warming up at the race. After getting my number and having my wife pin it to me, err pin it to my jersey, it is time to get ready. I like to get loose and spin around a bit after arriving to the race site. If I’m in the first race of the day, I’ll take a slow lap around, take notice of some possible lines, see if I need to adjust the pressure in my tires etc.

If everything is good I’ll ramp up the second lap to about 80% or so primarily to make sure I’ve chosen good lines and again seeing how the tire pressure reacts closer to race speed. After this lap I’ll stretch a bit, talk to the wife and then go do some start sprints so that my legs really open up.

GET THE TIMING RIGHT FOR YOUR PRE-RACE RITUAL

Now, the timing of all this is important. You don’t want to be done warming up and then have to wait for a long time and have all of that effort go to waste. I like to finish my warm up and get my last drink before the race at just about 5-8 minutes before the start.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU CAN’T PRE-RIDE THE COURSE

If my race isn’t the first of the day, then my slow spin will be around the perimeter of the race course so that I can still get my recon of the course in. Even when not on the course you can get a good idea of tire pressure by doing this so don’t fret about that.

After spinning around a bit, I’ll do my start sprints if there is still a race on the course. I try to time it out so that when the race before finishes I can then take that 80% lap right before my race starts.

KNOW YOURSELF; TEST A FEW WARM UP ROUTINES

Keep in mind, this routine is what seems to work for me. Yours may need to be a bit different so that it is the most effective for you. The key is, don’t be afraid to try something different and know how your body reacts to warming up in different temps.

I don’t use the same routine in December that I used in September. My body doesn’t like the cold as much as it used to so I have to take a longer warm up later in the season.

THE CYCLOCROSS RACE WARM UP REVIEW

So, to review, be mindful of how hard you have hammered through the week, stay hydrated, learn how your body reacts to different temps and develop your routine so that you can get that podium spot you, and I, have been dreaming about.

The post How To Warm Up For Your Next Cyclocross Race appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

Maintaining a bike isn’t always fun. Let’s face it, the real fun comes from wheeling down the highway soaking in the local sights and getting away from a desk for a while.

Routine maintenance can feel more like brushing your teeth in that it is terribly important yet ultimately not the most engaging way to spend one’s time. On the upside, spending some time familiarizing yourself with bike maintenance and the best tools for different jobs can save you time and get you back on the road faster.

There’s also the added benefit of not ending up stranded at the side of the road with a small toolkit full of unwieldy tools that were never meant to handle the average bike emergency. Phillips head screwdrivers only go so far when half of the screws on your ride require a hex wrench.

If you’ve been putting off the assembly of a proper toolbox for your biking needs, start with these six vital tools made to keep you riding longer, happier and with fewer scraped knuckles or cable cuts to tend to.

1. BIKE PUMPS

Nothing can ruin a tire faster than riding your bike with low tire pressure. At best you might suffer decreased performance and imperfect cornering, but a worst-case scenario could lead to a punctured tube or a nasty spill. Knowing your tire’s optimal pressure and being able to keep your tires primed at that pressure are both equally important, so having a tire pump that fills a tire quickly and hosts an easy-to-read pressure gauge is paramount.

Portable bike pumps are just as important as having a stand pump at home. You never know when a roadside leak or a blown tube could happen to you. Replacing a tube is one thing, but not having and knowing how to use a portable pump makes that spare tube you carry about as useful as any other incomplete set of tools in your arsenal.

2. TIRE PATCH KITS

So, you’ve got your tire pump ready to go. What do you do if a roadside flat does happen? Some leaks are so severe that you may require an all-new tube to get back to riding, but many pinhole punctures in your tire can be sealed with self-adhesive patches that can act as temporary or permanent repairs to a variety of leaks.

3. TORX AND ALLEN / HEX KEYS

Bike manufacturers have shifted towards hex keys over the years for a variety of reasons and few tools in your workshop are going to get as hefty a workout with your bike as hex keys. Most adjustment and replacement jobs you take on will require one or more and there’s not much you can do with a flat head screwdriver when a special bolt or screw pops up. Save yourself the time later and snag a few sets before you need them.

4. CABLE CUTTERS

Though it may not seem like a regular job, good bike maintenance calls for the replacement of brake cables when they start to fray, wear or rust over time and you won’t be hacking through them with just any pair of scissors.

You can get by with a pair of bolt cutters but the overkill in using something that specialized just to snip a bit of cable you might have trouble getting to with such a large, specific tool isn’t often worth the hassle. Cable cutters are often the size of hand shears and make your cable-snipping duties less of a wrestling match.

5. LUBRICANTS

Dry metal rubbing against dry metal isn’t good for the longevity of any solid component on your bike. Keeping your chain oiled and your gears greased means less friction and wear on parts that you shouldn’t have to replace on a monthly basis, but not just any oil or grease will do.

Chain lubes, for instance, are designed not to pick up as much debris from roadside conditions as you might get with other oils. WD-40 may seem sufficient but it dries into a sticky mass over time and isn’t suitable for most bike applications.

6. COMBINATION WRENCHES

Not every component uses a hex key. Most non-essential components and accessories use some sort of common bolt or nut that doesn’t require anything fancier than a small assortment of wrenches you might use for any household project. Ratchet sets are nice as well, but hardly necessary unless your bike has bolts in areas that won’t allow a traditional wrench to turn properly. Know your bike and what it requires!

CONCLUSION

While bike maintenance may not be a fun and exciting part of the week, chances are you can handle it with some know-how and a small assortment of tools you can pick up without a major financial hassle. A well-maintained bike is a bike you can ride for years to come and there’s nothing better than knowing you fixed it up yourself.

If you’re looking to build a truly budget-friendly bike toolkit, check out our article.

The post 6 Bike Maintenance Tools Every Cyclist Needs to Own appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

If you’ve ever slapped on a cheap lid from 1994, you know the term Mushroom Head intimately. Perhaps that experience has led you to searching for the best bike helmets. Guess what? You’re not alone. We’ve also been on a journey to finding stylish cycling lids that banish the old school mushroom-head look.

In fact, we got all of our staffers in on the hunt–trying out helmet after helmet to get a feel for what looks stylish on most heads. We’re using the following criteria to compile our list: FIT, COMFORT, SLEEK PROFILE, LACK OF BULK, and SAFETY.

We’ve narrowed it down to 8 of the best bike helmets that hit these criteria for the most people.

OUR PICKS FOR THE BEST LOOKING BIKE HELMETS OF 2017

Below, we’ve got all the helmets listed out by Manufacturer including links to our trusted online retailers that carry them. Plus, we’ve found the cheapest prices (as of this writing) for you and listed it below. Easy stuff!

Small note: If you’re buying from Amazon, please make sure you buy from a reputable seller! Counterfeits do happen.

Best Bike Helmets by Giro: Cinder, Synthe, Foray

Giro Foray

MSRP: $85

Giro’s complete line of helmets are less bulky than they used to be, and their road-worthy aero offerings look much better than more space-ship-styled brands. We’ve got 3 helmets by Giro that will make sure you’ll look good.

The Foray, Giro’s cheapest option here, looks great and sits close to your head. Honestly, most people won’t know you’re not wearing a $250+ lid.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com | Ribble Cycles

Cheapest Price: Currently, Competitive Cyclist has the Foray for $45.46

Giro Cinder

MSRP: $150

Moving up the line, the Cinder offers aero and stylish benefits without the huge price tag of their top-of-the-line racing helmet, this season’s Synthe. In fact, the Cinder actually fits a bit narrower than the Synthe for an even less mushroom-head look.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com | Ribble Cycles

Cheapest Price: Currently, Competitive Cyclist has it for $104

Giro Synthe

MSRP: $250

The Synthe offers about a 30 gram drop in weight as well as larger vents for more cooling power and higher aero properties. At full price, it’s a $100+ jump for the premium features of the Synthe. One that I don’t think warrants making the leap, unless you’re doing a lot of hot weather rides or climbing.

Do note, however, Giro tends to fit a more oval shaped head, so make sure to try it on before you buy. Rounder heads will likely feel pressure points.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com | Ribble Cycles

Cheapest Price: Right now, you can get a Giro Synthe for a mere $125 at Competitive Cyclist.

Best Bike Helmets by Kask: Mojito

You’ve probably seen the Mojito on some Team Sky heads in seasons past. And for good reasons. There’s nothing quite like the Italian comfort and finishing touches (we’re talking leather straps, people) that Kask puts into their helmets.

The retention system is fully articulated to pull down and up so that it fits your head just right–and in the cases of ponytails, they always fit. Available in a detailed range of colors, you’re bound to find one that matches your bike–assuming you’re into that sort of thing–or your favorite kit.

If you’re not really ready to spend nearly $300 on other helmets, but you still want a premium helmet, you can grab similar styling for less cash with Kask’s Mojito. At 220 grams and with 26 vents, it’s relatively light and allows for plenty of air flow. Even on some of the warmest days, the Mojito makes for a comfortable and super stylish head.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Cheapest Price: At the time of this writing, Jenson USA has the Mojito for just over $150.

Best Bike Helmets By Lazer: Blade, Z1

Lazer Blade

MSRP: $95

A much more cost-effective helmet with plenty of trickle-down tech from Lazer’s Z1. Fits lots of head shapes, and at just $95 it’s hard to go wrong. With 22 vents, it does a decent job of keeping your head cool; though, not quite as well as the Z1.

While Lazer claims the Blade weighs in at 240 grams, it’s actually closer to 290 on our scale. So, I wouldn’t let the weight sway you on this one.

The Rollsys dial at the top of the helmet makes fitting it precisely to my head a serious dream, and it fits pony-tails without any hassle because the retention system sits above your gathered hair (none of that pulling your hair through the loop business). It actually casts a slimmer and sleeker profile than the more expensive Z1, and it carries plenty of top-level features. It’s hard to go wrong with the Blade.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Cheapest Price: Currently, Jenson USA has the Blade MIPS at 20% off with code SAVE20

Lazer Z1

MSRP: $270+

That having been said about the Blade, I also own and ride regularly with the Z1. And, in fact, it’s one of my favorite helmets. The comfort and performance is peerless. While it does cast a slightly larger profile than the Blade, it still avoids mushroom-head by a good bit. This helmet looks stylish, fits fantastically wonderful, and has the best retention system I’ve ever used.

While the $270+ price tag may be a bit too hefty for most, the Z1 definitely delivers. Massively cool with 31 vents and weighing at sub-200 grams, this is a serious contender for competitive riders.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Current Cheapest Price: At the time of this writing, Competitive Cyclist has the premium Lazer Z1 on sale starting at $120! I’d definitely go for the upgrade here.

Best Bike Helmets of 2017: Kali Phenom, Chakra

Kali Phenom

MSRP: $160

Kali is blazing new trails of safety, and their helmet always carry a unique design. The Phenom fits a surprising number of faces and head shapes without looking bulky or lame. At $160 MSRP, it’s one of the cheaper offerings for a high-end helmet.

The Phenom uses Kali’s “conehead” technology that crumples to direct energy to the sides if the helmet without the vents collapsing. All this and super padding (Bumperfit) that feels extremely comfortable and moulds to your own personal head with memory foam. The look is sleek and slim, so you’re never in danger of mushroom-head here.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Current Cheapest Price: Hashtag Bikes via Amazon has the Phenom for $126, but they’re not a seller we’ve used. Proceed with caution. We’d recommend going with the next cheapest, Jenson USA at $149.

Kali Chakra

MSRP: $55

All right, I know what you’re thinking. It’s got a visor. That’s no helmet for a roadie! I thought the same thing until I saw how the Chakra looked without the visor (pops off pretty easily). Oh, and the price tag is super tempting. About $50 gets you a sweet helmet that banishes bulk, and looks great with any kit–on road or off. And it’s sub-300 grams. Not shabby.

In fact, this puppy has great cooling factor with 25 vents, an easily adjustable dial-fit system at the back of the head, and it sits lower to protect a larger area. Plus, it comes in a huge variety of colors. Honestly, I have two friends who regularly wear this helmet on road rides, and it looks great, fits great, and performs great.

Kali also has the Chakra Plus version with 22 vents that sits about 30 grams heavier. But this one is marketing with greater strength in construction over the regular version. We, clearly, haven’t tested the differences in the two, but the Chakra Plus is going for the same price as the regular version over at Competitive Cyclist, which may make the choice moot.

If you don’t want to drop a ton of cash, but you still want a good look, Kali’s Chakra is a great choice.

Buying Options: Jenson USA | Competitive Cyclist | Amazon.com |

Cheapest Price: Currently, Bike Nashbar is selling the Chakra Plus via Amazon.com for just $19.99

SOME FINAL THOUGHTS

As always, although you might be tempted to grab the helmet that appeals most to your aesthetic, there is one key factor you’ve just got to consider: fit. Even the most awesome, lightest, and bluest lid won’t help you much if it’s uncomfortable. Just ask my old Giro Atmos how often we rode together after I found it created painful pressure points on my forehead.

Try it on. Make sure you’ll really love it.

And, of course, these aren’t the only cool lids we’ve seen. But these are the best bike helmets we’ve personally tried. Have any you’d like to add to the list? Let us know!

If you’re still on the hunt for the best bike helmets, you might also like our articles on Giro’s foray into affordable MIPS helmets, or Kali’s innovative research into reducing concussions with LDL technology.

The post The 8 Best Bike Helmets of 2017 – Styles That Look Good On Everyone appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

HAVE A CYCLING FRIENDLY HALLOWEEN

There’s nothing quite so scary to me as Halloween. Huddling in the house with the lights off, hoping and praying no kids knock on the door–dreading the influx of candy and the outflux of my waistline.

But, alas, now that I’m a parent, I’ve given in to the whole Halloween scene . . . although I still do try and funnel the candy out of my house before it can cause dozens of hyper-active laps around the living room–and I try to keep my kids calm too.

Since many of us are trying to avoid putting on extra poundage over these food-related holidays, I thought I’d share a few things to help build your energy on the bike. These extra energy foods for your next training ride (or run or swim) are made from pumpkins and pumpkin seeds, and all the stuff you’ll have left over from Halloween pumpkin carving.

Cycling & Triathlon Pumpkin Carving Stencils 

If you’ve ever done a web search for cycling and triathlon related pumpkin stencils, you’ll probably find that there are a few staples out there. Limited options, but still very cool.

Here’s perhaps the most popular bike stencil I’ve seen around, as originally posted by GamJams. Click the image to the left to link to the GamJams original stencil. I think this one is pretty cool–flames or no flames.

OK, so I saw this and thought, “That’s nothing. I can totally make one of those stencils.” Well, I think I realized why there are very limited options for bike related pumpkin carvings online.

I think a tongue-in-cheek “Nailed it!” is in order here. Take a look at what I came up with, have a hearty laugh, and try to carve this if you feel like ruining a pumpkin:

If any of you do try this, or you fix it, let me know. I’ll be interested in seeing how I ruined your Halloween experience this year.

LifeHack Has the Answers

Of course, if you’re feeling adventurous, LifeHack has some great ideas for creating your own, intricate carvings. And yes, they give you more info than you ever thought you’d need, but if you want the ultimate pumpkin experience, check out their post.

Use The Pumpkin Guts for Cycling Energy Bars & Snacks

Starting with the seeds . . . probably an obvious one here, but a great idea nonetheless. For a simple snack that you can actually take on the bike (which I’ve done before, and they’re kind of nice when you want something to chew on a less intense but longish ride) or simply snack on in place of all that candy your kid dragged home. Here’s a pretty simple way to toast them:

1. Make sure to wash all the guts from the seeds. The cleaner the better.
2. Spread them on a cookie sheet and sprinkle with your favorite seasoning. I go with sea salt–a good thing if you lose a lot of salt when you’re exercising.
3. Bake at 300 degrees for 30 minutes or so to desired toastedness.

These little seeds have some great vitamins, minerals, Omega 3s, and other good things that will help keep you feeling great.

Pumpkin Energy Bars

I also came across a great recipe for energy bars by Dan at The Health Nut. This uses the seeds mainly, but you can also use the pumpkin guts (I don’t actually know what that stuff is called) as well.

He equates them to Clif Bars minus the super sweetness, so if you’re a fan of sweeter bars this may not be for you. I tried these, and, while they’re great for energy, I do find myself wanting a bit more sugar. But that’s just me.

Finally, here’s another recipe by Christal at The Nutritionist in the Kitchen who serves up energy bars using the pumpkin puree that you might otherwise just toss in the garbage can. The coolest thing about this recipe? It’s got the option for protein!

And you know how we like to add protein to stuff. Check out her recipe, and let me know what you think. Sweet enough? These work great for packing up and sticking in a jersey pocket. Plus, you’ll feel a little better about ruining that pumpkin with my stencil, right?

SHARE YOUR HALLOWEEN CREATIONS

Hey, if you’ve taken the pumpkin carving challenge, or you’ve made some energy bars, snap a picture and share it with us!

Tag us on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, or Google+ and show off your hard work!

The post Have a Cycling Friendly Halloween with Pumpkin Carving & Energy Foods & Giveaways! appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.

THE PROPER CARE OF CLEATS

Sick of spending money on cleats only to have them dinged up, dirty, and ready for the dustbin?

Thanks to our great friends over at Bike Fit, we’ve got expert tips for you to not only increase the lifespan of your cleats, but to help keep you safer on the bike.

Hey, and be sure to check out Bike Fit’s other in-depth articles at BikeFit.com

HOW TO MAKE YOUR CYCLING CLEATS LAST LONGER: MAINTENANCE TIPS

• Amazing bike–check.
• Ergonomic handlebar–check.
• Comfortable and elegantly stylish shoes–check.
• Wheelset that costs more than my monthly food bill–check.
• Well-maintained cleats–what?

Leave it to us at BikeFit to focus on the small things but sometimes, those are the ones that have the most significant impact.  If you’ve ever managed to unclip at top speed and lived to tell the tale, then you understand the imperative nature of simple cleat maintenance or you’re Robert Forestermann and you literally double strap your clipless cleats to absorb your massive, cleat-disengaging watts.  Now that you’ve returned from watching Quadzilla crush it, here are some simple tips to help you care for your cleats.

SO FRESH AND SO CLEAN CLEATS

Although changing your cleats every 6 months would provide you with a fool-proof method of riding with well-functioning cleats, you can easily extend their life through some simple maintenance.

We recommend periodically checking your cleats for debris, especially if you walk often on your rides.  Dirt and dust quickly build up from road and trail debris.  These impediments can interfere with the ability to click-in and release from your pedals.

The BikeFit Cleat Screw Pick is an ideal solution.  Some people have used a knife or a small screwdriver but the specifically designed screw pick will help you dig out miles of caked on dirt and grime without the risk of lacerating your fingers.

FASTEN YOUR CLEATS

Cleat screw fasteners and the screws themselves can potentially loosen over time.  There may or may not be a story of a BikeFit employee that did not check his screws often and found himself pulling out of a criterium race due to his epically loose, rattling cleat almost falling off.  Be sure to check that they are tight.  If you are riding Speedplay pedals, check the base screws as well as the cleat screws.

Secondly, screw heads attract some of the worst immovable debris and get worn down to the point where you may be unable to remove them without some serious hacksaw interventions (see described hacksaw interventions to thy below).

https://vimeo.com/237789271

If the cleat wear impacts your ability to clip in, release, or you feel wobbles or an unsteady connection with the pedal, it’s time to replace the cleats.  If not, you may only need to replace the screw heads themselves.  While we carry a Screw Kit (contains the aforementioned Screw Pick) and a Walkable Screw Kit (Speedplay), you may not need bulk screws.  Therefore we suggest visiting your local BikeFit Pro or dealer, with your favorite sharable adult beverage, and they’ll be able to sell you some replacements.

IT TAKES TWO

Cleats materials have a limited lifespan depending on the usage.  They will eventually wear out and when you replace them, pick up a spare set as well.  Heck, you could go out tomorrow and pick up a second set even if your cleats are impeccable.  You’ll need to replace them eventually and again, your local shop loves when you visit with liquid hops-o-plenty and a need for new cleats!

Having a second pair of cleats allows you to inspect the excessive wear and tear from riding all those grand tours.  Use these spares as subjects to compare against the used ones.  Do they look like the cleats above? Too much wear (1mm or more) and it’s probably time to consider replacing cleats.

FOR GOD SAKES, COVER UP!

Depending on your cleats, some handle the grit and grime better than others.  Regardless, if you want to extend cleat life, consider cleat covers.

Speedplay recognized that numerous riders were shredding their cleats and now they offer some incredibly functional and aero Walkable Cleats.  Kool Kovers provide riders with multiple options of protective cleat covers for Shimano, Look Keo, Look Delta and Speedplay.

Yes, it may take you all of 8 seconds to remove them and reinstall after each of your 4 coffee stops, but extending the life of your cleats not only saves you money but also could prevent a potentially painful and skin-removing crash.

Ride safe and comfortable my friends.

-BikeFit

Published with permission. All images copyright Bike Fit.

The post How To Make Your Cycling Cleats Last Longer appeared first on SLO Cyclist | An Online Road Bicycling Magazine.